When we tread somewhere with angels at our side.
In the Summer of 1995 the Galleria degli Uffizi in Florence was undergoing some restoration and a big part of the artworks was not for visitation. One says "oh, no" for who knows when it's going to be, if ever, it the next time in the City of the Medici. Anyway, making the most of it there I went following the pre organized way to the gallery. I came to a point in which I had to open a door. It was dark on the other side. I took some time to adjust my eyes to the dim light and then saw a guard at the other end of the room, a small bench near the centre and, covering almost the whole wall, magnificent in inderect light, in air conditioned temperature, Sandro Botticelli's The Birth of Venus. Not knowing the real actual size of the painting, I was completely took by surprse, a very good surprise. There was the bench. I could sit and admire, for as long as I liked. There were few Japanese tourists in those days, in the 90's.
Well, that's the feeling of smelling Profumo for the first time. I mean the 2000 Profumo, EDP, in the burgandy hard box. Although the Acqua di Parma scent is very close to Guerlain Mitsouko, the notes presented here must be just the heart ones, or any other good chypre, one thing makes it apart from the others, even from my beloved Miss M. Profumo is dense, thick and full body like an aged and refined ruby port. It feels heavy, but it'snot its own fault, we are too used to watery transparent scents of our times. Also, Profumo makes me have a glimpsy of what the old classics, like Mitsouko, smelt like then, when they were all like young vampires. Profumo is buttery, and as such one feels it could be cut in slices, to be spread onto the skin instead of spraying it. It is like seeing face to face, a painting you saw so many times in books and magazines, in films, just to realise it is much more than whatever you had dreamed before. Profumo brings voices from the past to deaf ears of the present. It takes a lot of sensitiveness to appreciate Beauty, as Italians are able to do so well.
Although I think they belong to the same genre, and therefore smell alike, Mitsouko and AdP Profumo stand on their own feet. I love both. And I am a man.
Smooth, sensuous, and sumptuous are words that come to mind whenever I wear this. To my nose, it's more of an oriental than a true chypre; my bottle dates to the 1970s so possibly the formulation has changed since then.
Utterly feminine and gently insistent---others will notice your fragrance but never feel overwhelmed by it. The florals take center stage throughout the development. No one flower stands out; they're beautifully blended into a homogenous mixture of softness and depth. I notice the ambery note in the heart more than the labdanum; I think that is what keeps the fragrance from being too sweet. The woody basenotes are equally smooth and blended. Absolutely lovely drydown that seems to last forever.
Sillage is moderate and longevity is excellent, over 12 hours on my skin. Wearable for any occasion, I think, but especially for romantic nights out.
Pros: Smooth, rich, complex, long lasting
When reviewing this, it must be made clear whether you're talking about the vintage or reformulated version. The vintage has an old-school chypre structure, complete with citrus in the opening and oakmoss peeking it's head out througout the middle and the drydown! I'm wearing it now and it is nowhere near a powdery white floral. The vintage version is so close to Mitsouko that if you like Mitsouko, you'll love vintage Acqua Di Parma Profumo. It's terribly hard to find in full bottles,and when you do, it's more expensive than the reformulated version, which I've seen for as much as $250 or more! However, there are lots of 5 ml minis avalable on ebay. Look for the Burgundy-colored box that's usually pictured beside it.
Huge, billowy, orchestral floral which demands a carpet unrolling in front of every step the wearer takes. The floral notes are so well-blended that they give rise to all sorts of permutations over the hours this lasts Ė starting from a gorgeous vendange tardive gewŁrztraminer opening that morphs into luscious plum to varied pink and white floral bouquets. They don't make them like this anymore and therein a caveat: this is full-on, old-fashioned perfume-making, a world away from bland fruity-florals or lightsteppers, and can appear somewhat behind the times. Don't care much for the old makeup note that inhabits the drydown, but there is plenty of glorious floral cover to make me overlook it. Stately.
I don't know for certain whether this is new or vintage, but some of the reviews I've read suggest I must have an older version. A very powerful opening that smells almost masculine on me, followed by some lovely florals and (the best part for a chypre lover) a fantastic mossy drydown that goes on forever. If only it weren't so expensive I would enjoy it every day.