Reviews of Acqua di Parma Profumo (1930)
by Acqua di Parma

This is a review for the reformulation which was done in 2008 by Nathalie Lorson. This new version is like Rochas Femme having undergone the same treatment as, say, Diorella did in Amouage's Jubi 25. It smells like a Roudnitska classic but reinterpreted for Cleopatra. It's got that whole ancient vibe about it that you still get in attars from the Mid-East (am thinking in particular of Amouage Ohood), but it's lightened up so that the fragrance breathes. Mature, feminine, classic.

Green and floral chypres have been my 'thing' lately, and Profumo is one of the best I've come across. There is a distinct rose/plum topnote grafted onto the chypre structure that is simply fantastic. It is similar in style to Guerlain's discontinued Parure, but it's not as bright and cheery as Parure. After about 30-40 minutes the rosey/plumy notes fade and a long drawn-out oakmoss drydown emerges that meanders for hours. This may be one of the best oakmoss bases of any fragrance made today. There is an elegance and stateliness to Profumo that must be experienced. Many re-issues of classic fragrances are nothing but pale reflections of their former selves, but this is one that could easily confuse for a 30s era fragrance. Excellent and required for chypre fans. A Neimans SA told me there is a reformulated version now available (because of oakmoss restrictions? She didn't say). I can't attest to the newest version.

On a side note, the presentation is fantastic. The bottles sits in a pedestal base with a slot for the bulb sprayer attachment. The art-deco ribbed glass bottle - sans label - is one of the best looking on my shelf.

If John Sargent Singer's 'Madame X' could wear a perfume, Profumo would be her choice. An elegant chypre that was reformulated from the 1930 original in 2008. It is perhaps one of the loveliest chypres on the market and the best reformulation of a classic (ok along with Visa by Piguet) Brava!

Marvelous chypre. Profumo does for chypre what Joy did for florals. An amazing super accord of flowers, resin, wood, and aromatic herbs. Predictably a bit overwhelming on first application but the drydown is that of a classic chypre, very sophisticated and intriguing yet perfectly behaved. Take it to the opera.

Acqua di Parma Profumo is an exquisitely poised powdery-dry floral chypre. It’s slightly sweeter and softer than Givenchy III, with a creamy iris note that brings to mind Chanel’s 31 Rue Cambon. The Acqua di Parma is drier and lighter than the Chanel however, and also more obviously floral in its heart. It’s definitely not the dark chypre of Mitsouko or Bhagari. Indeed, there is a luminous quality to this scent that I find irresistible. Acqua di Parma Profumo even induces in me that rare wistful sense - so close to heartbreaking - that I experience with Apres l’Ondee and En Passant.

Acqua di Parma Profumo is simply a beautiful thing, a scent that embodies classical perfection: nothing could be added, nor anything removed, that would not diminish it. While it could, I suppose, be unisex, it seems to me so delicately pretty that it belongs on a woman. But there perhaps I’m just being sexist. I suggest anybody with a serious interest in fragrance give this a try. Whether you ultimately want to wear it or not, it’s an outstanding example of balance and proportion in perfume composition.

There is SO much going on here! Profumo almost changes minute-to-minute. For the most part, I love it - delicious chypre with florals and spices (especially cinnamon) playing around the edges and coming forward to take a bow over the course of dry-down. One of the few perfumes with a somewhat powdery base that I actually adore anyway.

This immediately informs me that I am dealing with something of extraordinary character. A genuine classic women’s chypre: Acqua di Parma Profumo opens as many of these classic chypres do: with a powerful blast of alcohol and civet that can be very disarming if it is not expected. As the opening quickly quiets down, Acqua di Parma Profumo exhibits its classic constitution with the refined citrus / herb opening. The top notes are elegant and sensual. They do not last long and are quickly followed by heart florals and spices in beautiful balance. The dry down is so wonderfully chypre and sensual. The subtle smokiness is what totally wins me over—the perfect refining touch. This fragrance comes off rather strong when first smelled close to the skin, but it really doesn’t throw a lot of sillage, and, as it progresses to the dry down, it becomes more and more delicate and understated. I find Profumo to be a very sensual fragrance because of its chypre nature. Acqua di Parma Profumo is an excellent feminine classic whose longevity leaves much to be desired, but it still abundantly supplies its beautiful classic tradition.

I've worn this, and I think it's perfectly suitable for a man to wear for a special evening out. The chypre accord is based on the oakmoss, and the florals are not overpowering, but balanced with the spicy notes, making just the right combination to be flattering on a man. So, guys: Don't be shy! Try this one; it's elegant and sensual at the same time!

A good example of the fact that stronger & more often just wrecks a good thing. Instead of the zesty, fresh & beautiful combo of citrus, rose and light herbs in the EDC and mint in the Assoluta-rendition the perfume version OD's on everything. The result is an overly dry, stuffy and unrefined chypre. Strong? - Sure. Elegant, pleasant & worthwhile - Not even close. Ironically I even find the bottle inferior to the ones of the lighter formulations.

This fragrance took my breath away. It is a beautiful chypre from start to finish. There wasn't one wrong note in the entire formulation. I consider this Acqua Di Parma's masterpiece, rather than their more well-known EDC's.
One partial list of notes I found online - Top Notes: bergamot, bitter orange, petitgrain, lavender, sage Mid notes: honeysuckle, neroli, jasmine, ylang-ylang, iris, rose, cinnamon, clove, cardamom Base notes: amber, sandalwood, oakmoss, frankincense, cedar. But that's just partial. It boasts over 300 ingredients. This parfum is loaded to such a degree, that only skill could have brought it all together.
It smells like rough smokey Gardenia on my skin - sultry, classy, sensuous, cerebral. If you're a Chypre person, you owe yourself a sample of this. I bow to its beauty, and intelligence of construction. Profumo is really what perfumes are all about - why we buy them, why we love them.