Eau de Gloire (2003)
by Parfum d'Empire

Eau de Gloire is a fleeting herbal citrus scent that failed to leave any lasting impression on me. Well, while I could detect it on my skin…

A formal and traditional man’s cologne more than a substantial EDP.

[Original submission date: 01 March 2009]

I came very close to dismissing Eau de Gloire. After all, the woody citrus-chypre territory it occupies has been thoroughly explored in scents like Cristalle (the green approach), Eau d’Hermes (the X-rated animalic approach), Eau Sauvage (the herbal approach), and Diorella (the fruit and leather approach). So when the first hour’s wear of Eau de Gloire revealed yet another take on the mossy Eau de Cologne-on-steroids formula, spiked with a pleasantly sweet anise note, I yawned. The stuff was nearly indistinguishable from the sample of Diorella I’d placed on my other arm.

As it happens, Eau de Gloire is a patent case for not judging a scent too hastily. The leather and tobacco listed in this scent’s note pyramid don’t emerge for at least an hour or two after application, but when they do, they transform Eau de Gloire into a much more distinguished scent. Indeed, the extended drydown is an enjoyable essay on labdanum, leather, and oakmoss that largely redeems the well executed, though slightly hackneyed introduction. I should note that while Eau de Gloire is not particularly weak, it only reveals its distinctive drydown when applied generously. Light application leaves a less flattering impression.

If you find Cristalle too harsh, Eau d’Hermes too lewd, and Eau Sauvage a bit too staid, then Eau de Gloire offers a viable alternative. It’s still hard for me to recommend Eau de Gloire over Diorella, which it most closely resembles – particularly when the Dior sells for 1/3 to 1/2 the price. Nevertheless, this is a fragrance that merits attention when you want a transparent citrus scent with more endurance and weight than a traditional Eau de Cologne.

A take on the classical "eau de cologne" with a twist. From the many different variations and derivatives of the cologne theme I've tried, this is one of the most characterful and appealing.

The typical cool sharp herbal-citrus opening with a touch of lavender fades very quickly, revealing the twist which here is a bucketload of anise/licorice that soon fades in volume leaving behind incense and tobacco. If you think that sounds masculine, yes, you're right, it is -- after all, it was meant to evoke Napoleon. Note that some may be turned off by the overwhelming amount of anise, but frankly, I am a fan of the note. Not the best scent in the world, but I have to give a well-deserved enthusiastic thumbs up for this one.

First and foremost: The designation at the top of the page is completely wrong. In no way is this a feminine fragrance, I don’t think it’s unisex, either: It’s actually very masculine. Eau de Gloire has a beautiful citrus opening… made intriguing by a light touch of lavender… quickly smothered in smoke and incense. Resinous and potent, this is the kind of prelude that reaches down deep and speaks to the mystical inner universe. There is a full, rich background to the smoke and incense: I find the individual notes in that background almost unidentifiable, but I don’t care …the effect is so powerfully primal that all I need to do is to experience. I understand there’s tea in there and tobacco, immortelle, oakmoss. The tea and tobacco do their thing exquisitely. The oakmoss smooths and rounds out the accord. The immortelle emanates from the hidden center of Eau de Gloire: Not at all obvious, it broods beneath the smoke and illusions… transparent but earthy as only immortelle can be. The immortelle is the heart of the fragrance…the spiritual power behind the temporal throne of Empire…the subconscious root of the progenitor of empire and universe. The anise, to me, is barely present, but enough – challenging and inscrutable – it is used to perfection. Supposedly created to bespeak Napoleon, I don’t see this so much as a picture of The Emperor as a individual; I see it more as an olfactory interpretation and depiction of his historical persona and his influence on human history. Eau de Glorie is an easy, comfortable wear that lasts and lasts as a tobacco, mossy, immortal skin scent.

Didn't really like this when I tested. The top notes were fleeting to say the least and it quickly dived into a rather sharp and harsh leathery mixture. The sillage is pretty big also, so was rather enveloped in it. Not for me.

I love this one. The freshness of the herbal citrus top notes weaving in and out between the anise and tea is refreshing, but then there is that incense and tobacco complicating matters in the best possible way. It reminds me of acting in an old theatre in my childhood. The dressing rooms smelled a bit like this.