Aqua Allegoria Mentafollia (2004)
by Guerlain

Well, I'll have to write quickly to get this review off, as the last few drops of my bottle of Aqua Allegoria MENTAFOLLIA are now mingling with my skin and will soon dissipate forever into the cosmos. I was reminded of this composition by HERBA FRESCA, mainly because I was so surprised that there should be two mint entries in the AA series. When I reached for my bottle of MENTAFOLLIA, I was also surprised to find that I had drained nearly all of the 75ml. I even had to wrench off the nozzle in order to access the last little bit!

To my nose, MENTAFOLLIA is a successful aromatherapeutic mint composition. This is mostly about mint, with an emphasis on spearmint, but some green tea leaves are present as well, ultimately producing something akin to the aroma of Moroccan mint tea. Although mint festivals are not really my idea of the basis for a bona fide perfume, I don't think that MENTAFOLLIA ever aspired to be such a thing. I regard this as a unisex cologne for hot weather wear. This relatively simple combination of notes is super fresh and super clean, in addition to being uplifting.

MENTAFOLLIA reminds me somewhat of the BBW TRANQUIL MINT line, which explicitly claims to be aromatherapeutic, and this composition is that to me. I would definitely consider replenishing my now-depleted supply of this refreshing cologne, so I'm obliged to give MENTAFOLLIA a thumbs up, but with the following caveat:

FOR MINT LOVERS ONLY!!!!

21st September, 2011.

I think this is a great mint fragrance! It smells like fresh, crushed mint leaves in the opening which is quite a vivid smell. It is very brisk and green. The heart brings a soft, pink rose with green foliage keeping it sharp. Also just a hint of powder accompanies the rose. The whole experience closes with a soft cedar, bringing this summer heat beater to a close.

This last much longer than I expected. Thumbs up for an interesting, easy and green summer fragrance.

18th September, 2011.

Oh-my-mint, fresh-mint, dirty-mint, cloying-mint... it's a mint-fest all round, all over and for all too long. The growing mint aversion inspires a sponge bath or a moist toilette and the application of something oriental or something else - anything without mint - until, suddenly, one becomes aware of a rising jasmine and just the whisper of rose. Perhaps there is some cedar in the background holding these notes together and not allowing them to create a sweet and sour-mint melange with green tea vase water that is still fresh but will become awful tomorrow. There is much sophistication in this composition. It is measured and perhaps as good as mint can be. I prefer mint crushed under foot with its aromas rising fresh and pure. I consider this an experiment or a perfumery assignment. This is probably as good as mint can be but one cannot escape the thought that one might eat mint sweets and achieve a more pleasant minty waft.

30th July, 2010.

The mint in Mentafollia has a bitter tinge to it that I enjoy more than the usual fresh mint note. Also, the mint note is strongly augmented by the green tea note – I like the combination very much, but to be honest, I think I get a bit more of a green tea note than a typical mint note. The use of mint in AA Mentafollia could have been an inspiration for the mint in Cartier’s Roadster – another mint fragrance that I actually like. The dry, bitter mint / green tea dominates to the point of overwhelming the opening’s citrus to my nose.

The top and middle levels hold on for a time – way longer than its “aqua” status would suggest. Mentafollia doesn’t seem to have much movement to my nose. It stays pretty linear with its mint / green tea accord. It takes almost two hours before I notice the cedar of the base, which is about all I get from it. The base is rather generic, but it is OK because I already had an extended time with the part of the movement that I most enjoy – the top and the middle notes.

Aqua Allegoria Mentafollia is a surprisingly enjoyable, well made mint / tea fragrance and a very nice change from the more usual citrus. I find it surprising because I didn’t think that I would enjoy the mint note.

4th December, 2009.

Hello. My name is Quarry, and I'm a green-aholic. No surprise to anyone here that I love these mint green top notes, but once they mix with Mentafollia's soapy heart, the spell begins to break. I'm put in mind of the unceasingly minty goodness of Masakï Matsushïma Mintea (discontinued), which doesn't vary to any degree, but sustains that sweet, green blast that puts a glint in my eye.

22nd October, 2009.

Mint, mint, mint. This was surprisingly enjoyable. I'm not a big fan of mint in fragrances, but Guerlain lets mint take center stage with a barely noticeable supporting cast. After about two hours it takes on a slight synthetic edge but softens after that. Be warned, it lasts forever. Two days later (and I shower every day) and I could still smell it on my hand.

7th February, 2009.