Borneo 1834 (2005)
by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

Sure, it does not belong in the category of mainstream scents, made to please the masses. Unexpectedly melancholic and earthy, interacts only with the bearer, transmitting waves of comfort and warmth. Basic notes of camphor and cocoa, are combined irreproachably from beginning to end, without however to evolve into something different. But is this always necessary? I prefer to get the camphor note as a variation of the classic pipe’s tobacco note, while the cocoa note reminds me of the smell that bitter chocolate leaves on its paper wrapping. The combination of those two elects an interesting and close to the skin patchouli. Unconventional and with his own character, I suppose it will not leave pleasant impressions in the air, it will please however the one that wears it. Pity that does not last a lot.

A patchouli and spices based scent. The cocoa (powdery chocolate) really puts me off in this one and is not really chocolate. More like thick syrupy honey. So thick you'd wonder what kind of flowers the bees are pollinating. This is more like B*Men rather than A*Men. Absolutely a must sample first because he opening is really, really chokingly bad but the drydown is ok. Not a fan of this one.

After all the comparisons to A*Men, Borneo 1834 didn’t really seem like an attractive option to me. Even though my opinion has since changed, I still feel underwhelmed and unsatisfied when it’s on my skin. Yes, the combination of dark chocolate and patchouli is both inviting and sensual but it lacks the complexity and depth I would normally expect from Serge Lutens. A straightforward patchouli scent is definitely something that I was not expecting and its longevity is rather disappointing (roughly four hours).

In some ways, it reminds me of my disappointment with Montale’s Patchouli Leaves – too much amber and not enough patchouli (in other words, I found the name misleading). With Borneo 1834, the patchouli’s most definitely there but, during the drydown, there’s very little else to hold my interest. It also lacks the richness I would usually expect from this house.

[Original submission date: 23 October 2008]

I've been so excited to try this one, and I'm glad I have.  The opening blast reminds me of one of the local monastery's fruitcakes, freshly soaked in rum.  This is very much a good thing, and intriguing, too.  After those settled down, I alternately smelled what must be the bitter chocolate and the patchouli.  Eventually the patch takes over and turns a little sour on my skin.  Sillage is non-existent for three hours, then, as the patch aserts its dominance, sillage becomes apparent.  The funny thing is, I was intrigued by Borneo 1834 during the first couple hours.  I kept sniffing my wrist, thinking, 'It's not pretty, but it is interesting...and kind of cool.'  I was hoping the chocolate would share the stage a little bit.  But this upsurge of patch is a little too sharp for me.

Serge Lutens Borneo 1834

Borneo 1834 has been compared to Coromandel and because they share a nose, Christopher Sheldrake, and two prominent notes in patchouli and chocolate I would guess the comparisons are inevitable. Borneo 1834's patchouli arrives on a flying carpet of camphor. The vapor trail this leaves behind is indelible and memorable. As the camphor recedes the patchouli changes character and it seems as if it becomes more herbal and a very light incense note compliments it through this stage of development. The biggest similarity I notice between Borneo 1834 and Coromandel is the source of the chocolate note. In both cases it is the smell of dry cocoa powder and not the lusher milk chocolate found in many gourmands. By using this aspect of chocolate as a note it keeps Borneo 1834 from being considered a gourmand. As the arid chocolate takes the spotlight there is a beautiful hint of wood that comes in, which I think is rosewood, and the sweet woody note really brings this home in fine style. I think that Borneo 1834 shows what a talented perfumer can do when he is using the same central players and yet still create something different.

Chocolate and Patchuoli. How very interesting combo. I'm not a big patchouli fan, but I would buy a FB.