Borneo 1834 (2005)
by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

Am I the only one thinks this smell a lot like Dettol?

Borneo 1834 displays its facets in surprising ways. I kinda feel like it's the refined gentleman's A*Men. There are moments when it smells caramelized and gourmand. There are times when it smells arid and desert-like patchouli, and there are times when it smells of just plain old patch.

It opens very gourmand like, sweet and caramelized, with a sensual musky smell of styrax and a note of dry cocoa like many have described already. The cocoa only makes a brief appearance, for the most part it mostly becomes all patch, punctuated by the note of camphor, or rather mint to my nose, and sweetened by a background of cardamom and vanilla. Bitter notes of galbanum and woody cistus are barely there but laces the base of this scent.

I was afraid that it would be heavily gourmand, but it's not really the case, to the extent that you can wear patch and gourmand notes in the summer with this one.

To my nose, this scent gives me a feeling of ease and exoticism with a modern feel. Quiet for the most part, all except it's gourmand beginnings, and longevity is a bit lacking, and you won't get any sillage unless you possess some form of body heat.

I have nothing much to add to the reviews, they are excellent and in most cases on spot, besides one thing - I blind bought this and haven't regretted it!

This is a very dark, dusty patchouli and chocolate fragrance that could have been great if it were better constructed. I love scents with prominent patchouli, and the patchouli is very strong in this. I also am glad that the chocolate note here is dark and bitter, not sweet and cloying like in some gourmand fragrances (yuck!). But Borneo 1834 smells like two separate fragrances sitting adjacent to one another. I find myself savoring the patchouli note, and then savoring the chocolate note. These two main notes are poorly blended and fail to create a seamless accord. I feel like I'm turning my head back and forth in my own mind, trying to smell two different scents consecutively, over and over. Smelling this over time is frustrating and annoying.

Borneo 1834 could have been so much better, but turned out to be yet another self-indulgent, overrated niche release.

I was looking forward to experiencing the unusual patchouli/chocolate combination but the camphor note just killed this one for me. On my skin it was just overpoweringly medicinal, with an earthy background and no noticeable chocolate. I would imagine this one is better encountered at a distance but I couldn't wear anything that I didn't like up close. Definitely not one to purchase unsniffed or on impulse.

Chocolate. Patchouli. There’s not much more I want to say about Borneo 1834. It’s a simple, weird, and compelling accord – I’m just not sure that I like it. My preferences aside, this is a bold, original scent, and an outstanding take on patchouli. Just try it first!