A nice dark rose. Apparently, it's technically a chypre, but it's core and most of what I smell is that synergy you get when you mix the classic attar ingredients of patchouli, rose, and sandalwood. There's also a baby powder smell that I think is what is causing the "old lady" complaints. Despite the official notes, if you can imagine a powdery Portait Of A Lady, or even Montale's Black Aoud with the rubbery medicinal oud taken out (but retaining the remarkable depth of the patch/rose combo) and replaced by powder, that's about what I think Un Folie De Roses mostly smells like.
As a matter of personal taste, I much prefer the smell of oud over the smell of baby powder, so I'd go with Montale over Folie, but this is nicely done and worth the thumbs up.
Old fashioned and old smelling, like it had been left in the bottle too long. Opens well enough with vapours of soft, sweet, lightly spiced rose, until a sharp, fusty sandalwood-dominated spike rises to eviscerate its belly. This one's a doddering aunt clad in yellowing furs, with pancake slap and hair sprouting out of the mole on her chin.
But hark, what's this? A few days later, I return for furtive further sniffs. And by my second wear, there's romance in the air. This one's doing funny things to my head. Must remember: addictions are usually damaging to health. Must remember: screwed up look of disgust on partner’s face when I first tried this.
It resembles Lady Vengeance, but just a little darker (the oakmoss and vetiver). This really should be classified as a unisex. The men's selections from Rosine are their very worst ones, but don't despair, some of these "feminine" Rosine frags can work for us guys. Case in point.
Les parfums de Rosine UNE FOLIE DE ROSE has a slightly dark and dirty, oakmossy edge. The rose petals seems somehow black around the edges in this perfume, imparting a distinctly gothic feeling to the composition as a whole. I would describe the overall effect as somewhere between a floralized light leather and a rose chypre.
Although to my nose this is a fairly linear presentation, it might open up differently under various weather conditions, and I suspect that it would heat up quite nicely on the skin in the depths of winter. I'll save the rest of my generous sample for now and try again once the temperature has dropped this fall...
What a pretty, spicy, rose chypre! I agree, it's definitely more chypre than floral. I could see how, if this one goes wrong, it goes really wrong, because it's definitely not a shrinking violet. NB: I dabbed, rather than spraying, which probably reduced the aldehydes, as well as the potency.