Mandragore (2005)
by Annick Goutal

This review is for the edt from a vial on card.

Mandragore possesses so few ingredients that it almost presents as a linear perfume. Fresh Bergamot dominates the entrance, if only for a short while. Within a minute, the fragrance settles into what it remains for about 4 hours; a sharp, simple, spicy melange of Bergamot, Black Pepper, Mint, Ginger, and (barely noticeable) Star Anise. The Bergamot and Mint are lovely, and manage to stand up well to the potentially overpowering Pepper. This is one of the more exemplary uses of Bergamot I have encountered. It is used throughout the composition to create balance, rather than existing solely in the top notes. The Star Anise is lost in the mix; I can't discern it. However, with so few ingredients, it must have some subtle effect. The Ginger is almost edible, and supports the Pepper in its role. The drydown is woodsy, similar to Sandal or Cedar, but more subtle, as it cannot compete with the Spice and ubiquitous Bergamot. I have never had the opportunity to smell the Mandrake Root, or Mandragore, so cannot comment on its presence or lack thereof. Due to its potent hallucinogenic effects, I can only imagine that it is used in minute amounts as a marketing tool...like cocktails containing Absinthe.

This is almost a gourmand, like gingerbread without the sugar. Mandragore gives the impression of being created predominantly of natural materials, but very carefully, and with some synthetic boosters. I see this on both men and women, but would prefer it on a man. This fragrance lacks roundness- without the addition of a voluptuous base like Tonka, Vanilla, or Amber, it requires the oilier skin of a man to have depth. I find it sits atop my skin, but never melds into it, even on a warm day.

Compare to current Idole by Lubin, which is both creamier and boozier, and has more character.

29th July, 2011.

This is my first review, and I am reviewing the EDP format.

In the past, I have not loved AG scents-- to me they seem like riffs on the classic cologne formulation-- and I have tried a great many. But Mandragore is different than it's brothers. I ordered a sample, not expecting to like it, and ended up ordering the biggest bottle available (the one with the butterfly) the very day I tried it.

It starts out in the usual AG way wth citrus topnotes, but it quickly morphs into a wonderful spicy, sophisticated scent that does not overwhelm. For me it has only these two phases. This is the scent to wear to the office-- it is subtle and beautiful, yet it will pull people nearby closer to you as they fall under its spell. It is a scent to fall in love with. It is unique-- you cannot pin it down the way you can with, say, fracas or joy or any guerlain. It is a quiet mystery for a secure and confident person. It does not shout, "Oh look-- here I am!" But it does whisper this.

True, it does not have the staying power it might (maybe spray some on hair and clothing, or layer with the soap,) and maybe its sillage is gentle-- but I bought it along with 30 or more samples, trying about 3 or 4 per day. I put it on it the am, and at the end of the day, wearing l'heure bleu for the first time (sample #3) and driving to the market, I caught a whiff of this on my shirt and knew that I would be buying it and ditching that particular guerlain.

19th June, 2011.

The first advice I can give in regards to this scent, you must try it on your skin first. When I smelt Mandragore from the bottle a look of horror, disgust and nausea must have crossed my face. Since I had only recently been quite ill with the flu, Mandragore instantly reminded me of a decongestant I took on a daily basis which was in the form of a lemon flavoured powder which when added to hot water, created the foulest smelling and tasting concoction on the planet.

I didn't think I would be touching a bottle of Mandragore ever again, until now. I was brave and applied a few small sprays to my wrist and waited.

I'm not a fan of the citrusy bergamot note, I never will be, however the pepper, mint and ginger notes balance the scent out nicely. After ten minutes the fragrance is quite pleasant and soft, certainly not nauseating like it was from the bottle.

I think to fall head over heels in love with this scent requires an acquired taste. It is certainly very different from my other Annick Goutal love, Passion.

I don't get a lot of woods in this fragrance, I think of it as more of a citrus aromatic rather than a woodsy perfume. It's unfortunate that this fragrance has poor lasting power, because it's perfumes like these that make people give up on Annick Goutal fragrances, which is a shame because she makes such lovely scents.

I have concluded that I do like Mandragore, but only in small doses. It's certainly not something that I can picture myself wearing every day. I might wait until the warmer months to try this again, because I am eager to see how well this is worn during the hot Summer days.

I probably wouldn't purchase this fragrance in a full bottle, however I'm content with my 15ml sample.

27th April, 2011.

Predominantly a light citrus scent but so mysterious to me. Effervescent to start and an enigma with the 'mandrake powder' and anise. I didn't get much ginger but I guess it could be adding to the 'fizz' aspect of this scent. Totally in love with the top notes too. I'll be corny and camp - I'll say it's quite magical and 'shiny' in character. I tried the EDT which I found pleasantly lasting for approx. 2 hours to the final light dry down . The lasting power is marginally Ok for an EDT but I bet the EDP is marvellous. Despite the short longevity ,this is an unusual enough citrus based scent for me to love.

1st June, 2010.

I'm in the thumbs up camp. I fell in love with this one. It opens with a round luscious citrus cloud which on my skin does last far longer than other citrus scents I've tried. Humming along under the bright citrus is a delightful musky sage (?) (a reviewer below guessed) note. (It could be anise...but in no way is it a licorice note). To my nose, it's an indescribable note. These two dance with one another for a time in a light fast stepping romance. It's very uplifting. No idea about the name. Maybe AG was trying to go for "magical"...there's no darkness earthiness or witchcraft here. A great Springtime daytime "lift".

3rd May, 2010.

A bland and ephemeral orange citrus on a foundation of woods and spice. Gone before it had a chance to impress me.

27th February, 2010. (Last Edited: 6th March, 2010.)