Vanille Exquise (2004)
by Annick Goutal

This is not a vanilla bomb, and it is not a gourmand. It is a subtle gem of a vanilla fragrance.

The feel of this one is akin to a comfort scent - close wearing and not one to over analyze. There is a part of me that just wants to say "try it on a quiet evening". Let your mind go loose of all expectations.

It smells like softly scented baby oil...and all the comfort that feeling brings. There is a very sheer vanilla, there is a hint of almond. But yet, there is something of an edge to this quiet one. It smells almost like a faint incense, but I really think it is the woods that develop slowly and faintly. It also feels almost powdery, but yet, I don't smell powder. The guaic wood brings another hint of edge, but overall, I just smell soft, oily vanilla bean with the aforementioned edge.

It reminds me of two fragrances that I own - PdN Vanille Tonka if you tone the incense WAY down. But moreso, of FM L'Eau d'Hiver. There is the baby oil, almondy, incensey, smooth, subtle, soft breeze, but instead, with vanilla. The mood is of comfort and quiet. The feel is soft and subtle. The edge comes from the resinous, but soft woods. But don't look here for a big vanilla fragrance. Look here for a vanilla of illusion and quiet. Well done, and there is a place for this type of fragrance.

3rd December, 2011.

When it comes to vanilla-based fragrances, I'm used to those overly sweetened, synthetic, foody vanillas. Vanille Exquise is different.

This fragrance smells like true vanilla essence, minus the sugar or the foody qualities. Vanille Exquise is not the edible kind. It is not a gourmand.

Honestly, I was disappointed at first. I wanted lots of sweet vanilla and nutty almond, something that smelt like rich, luxurious vanilla ice-cream. What I got was a rather dry, concentrated and syrupy vanilla, with subtle spices and a powdery drydown.

It took a while for me to appreciate this fragrance, but now that I have embraced it, I am starting to like it even more.

Vanille Exquise is a nice change. This is vanilla for grown-ups, those with a more mature palate that leave all those teen vanillas behind in a blurry haze.

This fragrance is very comforting, and surprisingly lasting. While it may not be a gourmand-lover's dream, for those that like natural, raw vanilla, this fragrance is a must-try.

25th November, 2011.

Very strange vanilla. It`s like the perfumer didn`t like the vanilla note and tried to compose a fragrance hiding the vanilla instead of centering the composition on it. You can smell a pretty, pudding vanilla at the opening, but them this poor vanilla suffer a car crash accident and it`s completely defaced. When they reconstruct it, what you get is a combination of amber, honey, benjoin, gaiacwood that sound noisy, like they have put a antiseptic or a vinegar combination of honey and woods. It`s also like the perfumer tried to compose a warm, vanilla fragrance but then decided to add something more woodier and ambery, but forgot to properly link the two parts.

27th September, 2010.

I get a very sweet custardy vanilla in this - I find it very desserty - and then immediately afteward this rank, unwashed armpit note blooms. I don't know what it is (possibly gaiac wood?), but I get it in other fragrances too, and it doesn't work for me at all. It's fairly linear from there as it slowly fades in intensity. It would be very pleasant but for the sweatiness. I usually do well with Annick Goutals, but this one I can pass by.

24th October, 2008.

Very powdery. Not very vanilla. It lingers on my skin as a completely non-gourmande scent. Floral powder with some musk towards the end of the fragrance's life on my skin (which is a moderate--3-4 hours). As a vanilla fan this not nearly enough 'Exquisite Vanilla.'

27th September, 2008.

Starts as a translucent yet comforting vanilla scent, sophisticated and nice. Unfortunately Vanille Exquise develops an unpleasant note an my skin which is hard to describe for me: something generic, midway between cedar and hairspray. The longer the scent is on my skin, the stronger this note becomes until it takes over the pleasant vanilla scent.

18th September, 2008.