Un Jardin sur le Nil (2005)
by Hermès

Hermes Un Jardin sur le Nil

Notes: Green Mango, Grapefruit, Calamus, Lotus, Sycamore, Frankincense (from osmoz.com)

Un Jardin sur le Nil is a refreshing blast of fresh citrus--orange, mandarin and bergamot--along with some green herbal notes, sweet vanilla and a nondescript woody accord. I am guessing UJslN contains Iso E Super, judging from a newly forming headache that started after I sprayed. This is rather disappointing, as the fragrance is developing quite nicely at the start. In some ways, it reminds me of the lovely, juicy mandarine accord of Guerlain's Mandarin Basilic, but anchored a bit more with heavier herbs that border on being spicy. The drydown comes rather quickly, and is not nearly as enjoyable. It is composed of some bitter, sulfuric grapefruit components, traces of the original herbal melange, woods and a leathery masculine musk. Hermes' own Eau d'Orange Verte is a much better option for a green citrus scent--UJslN eventually smells more like a chemical cocktail than a citrus Cologne.

Why am I not surprised that Jean-Claude Ellena is the genius behind this ethereal, almost surreal scent? It certainly bears his signature. I shall not attempt to describe the scent as zztopp has already hit a home-run with his earlier review, particularly on that distinctive green mango. I would however add that if it wasn't for the luscious mango accord, this would have been a ho-hum affair at best. But as an impressionist concept I think UN JARDIN SUR LE NIL is almost flawless in its execution; an afternoon stroll through an orchard by the river Nile. Just that with a poorly cultured nose like mine, all I could think of was a fruit stall on a sultry afternoon. But that doesn't have quite the same ring to it, does it?

When I was in Boston this summer, I entered a very pretentious Hermes store where the staff was so posh that they did not bother to approach me. So I charged behind the counter for a try at a couple of fragrances. Un jardin is a flimsy, fruity affair with little staying power. If only it were as pretentious as the sales clerks...

I just finished reading about the creation of this fragrance in Chandler Burr’s “The Perfect Scent”. The opening strikes me as different: unripe mango supported by grapefruit. The grapefruit reminds me of the 2009 Eau de Pamplemousse Rose, although it is in the background here. The drydown strikes me as dry and earthy and reminds me somewhat of the earthiness of the 2006 Terre d’Hermes. In fact, it doesn’t feel very much like a garden to me at this point. Longevity is not so good for me. I would be curious to smell this on someone else, but I won’t be buying it.

Notes:
Top: Grapefruit, green mango
Heart: Calamus, Lotus
Base: Sycamore, Incense

The behind-the-scenes story of Un Jardin Sur Le Nil (Nil) is one that rocketed JC Ellena into the conscience of the modern perfume enthusiast. With former fanboy Chandler Burr documenting Ellenas every move along the banks of the river Nile in Egypt in the valley of the Pharoahs, the Hermes marketing machine was in full flow to muscle in on the highly competitive prestige perfume market.

What about the juice itself? Nil is an ethereal woody-fruity-floral with a unique note of green mango, and is probably one of Ellenas most cleanly structured and distinctive compositions. Nil opens with a burst of short-lived sour and juicy grapefruit; the sour aspect leads to a blooming heart of a green mango note. Having actually eaten many southeast asian green mango dishes, the green mango note rendered in Nil is rather good. Make no mistake, its tangy sour fruity aspect is evident throughout the fragrance. I suspect that this is an Ellena sleight-of-hand .. a combination of 2-3 ingredients which conjure the smell of sour, slightly fruity green mangos. The river Nile is further mined for inspiration..a sheer blue lotus note lends a light, aquatic floral scent while the calamus/sweet cane note mainly acts as a fixative, its sweet aromatic herbal character very much in the background. A couple of hours later the vetiver-incense base materializes...the woody, slightly bitter base fills out the fragrance and stretches its longevity.

Heat and warmth are friends of Nil. Although a light fragrance, warm/hot weather makes the tangy-green mango note stand out more, the floral earthy lotus blooms further, as does the woody incense base. Many will dismiss Nil as another light and brittle Ellena haiku, but delving beneath the haiku sketch reveals an interplay of good materials which fulfill the promise of the initial inspiration. With Nil, Ellena can claim to be the Prince of Egypt.

Rating: 8.5/10.0

At the Hermès store I liked this fragrance the best of all, but not quite enough to buy it. However, upon returning home with the sample and wearing it for a day, I find this fragrance decidedly addictive. The mango and lotus are fresh and light. It is the perfect summer fragrance, light, airy, watery like the lily pads that adorn the perfume's box. It reminds me of last summer's trip to the South of France, the smell of the ocean there and the breeze. To me this fragrance is sensual, light, and fresh. It is hard to imagine a man wearing it, though. I smell some of the same notes in my boyfriend's Timbuktu, in a more masculine version.
Anyway, highly recommended. Soft on me and easily blends in.