
They got the marketing for this scent all wrong. Touting it as a “new fragrance for tough men with a tender heart”, really is like saying tough men wear tutus. Giving the bottle gothic letterings alone will not make the scent any more masculine and besides, no self-respecting Goth would be caught dead (undead as the case may be) with this scent on them. Bulgari Black will still be the frag of choice for Goths. The targeted age group though, is spot on. It targets the 18 to 25-year olds, rather than the usual XS consumer who is aged around 35. I’d prefer to call it “XS Red” or “Red in XS pour homme” in homage to the praline heart note that distinctively resembles cherries to me or strawberries to some others. Either way, the scent evokes the colour red.
The one preoccupation of perfumers is to find that singular new molecule which can be used as the heart note of a scent and drive up its sales to stellar heights. Olivier Cresp’s creation focuses on the “praline” note, no doubt a synthetic new discovery and blends it with a citric topnote of Calabrian lemon, kalamanzi and a basenote that contains his favourite smell, patchouli as well as black amber for a soft balsamic effect on the drydown. It is a masterfully blended scent because the lemon and lime combo adds a sharp sour note to the sweet praline heart that gets depth from rosewood and breath from the patchouli and amber. It is critical for ingredients to add aspects of its note in a complementary fashion to form a unified accord.
Praline on its own would probably smell tart and very synthetic, just like vertiver on its own would be bitter and nearly unwearable as a scent, but we don’t get that sense of “synthetic-ness” because of a perfumer’s mastery over his ingredients. He knows almost instinctively what ingredients would blend well with each other and experiments these blends with the new synthetic molecule to discover the best combinations to put on the couturiers’ table for their selection.
There has been a sort of underground perfumers’ war to outdo each other in trying to create a simple masterpiece that surrounds a synthetic sweet heart note with more natural ingredients. The challenge is to make that sweet heart note wearable and less synthetic. Amber and vanille notes are very popular as basenotes because they contribute to the sense of natural-ness as substances naturally occurring in the wild and powdery notes mute the synthetic buzz of man-made molecules by surrounding it with the natural aspects of talcum powder.
So, Black XS’s praline note is wrapped with Tolu balm to encase it in a smooth creamy texture. Even then, the synthetic nature of the praline manages to scream out a loud siren before it is embalmed, between the top and mid-notes. Yes, it is very hard to hide synthetic-ness because it is usually astringent in quality and the sharp edges just pokes out of the best-made encasements. You know how great the perfumer is by the quality of his “encasements” and Black XS is blended to let just enough of the new molecule jut out, declaring an original creation is born, yet made wearable with more traditional bases.