Opus 1870 (2005)
by Penhaligon's

The emperor's new scent - in that I cannot detect anything at first, then a very very light blend of spice/celery/clove - hardly detectable despite a sizeable dose. This may work better on other skins, but alas to my nose and hide it has no credentials.

10 notes:

Top: Bourbon Black Pepper, Yuzi Fruit, Coriander
Middle: Clove Rose, Cinnamon, Incense
Base: Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Clarawood, Musk

The only cedar-heavy frag I've ever encountered that can best be described as opulent. This is a rich Oriental, but without the usual heavy florals and sweet vanillas so commonly encountered in that family. Appropriate for both office and formal wear, with very good sillage and marvelous longevity. Probably not the best casual frag in the world; however, that may be just my own judgment that doesn't work for you.

This frag has many detractors; however, I am not among them. While I won't be rushing out to buy a bottle anytime soon, I certainly have to sing its praises.

If you are a cedar fan, you cannot pass this up. The dry down is beyond amazing...the best cedar I have ever smelled, putting to shame offerings by Givenchy.
The opening with its pepper and ambery flirtatiousness is quite a sophisticated approach to 'amber' IMHO, giving it a character that is familiar yet satifying. You want to keep smelling it. Then you get the warm dark mids from the vibrant 'sours' in the opening which transition well into the aforementioned awesome cedar wood. LOVELY. At least try it!

This would be woody then. And lasts all of 15 minutes. And also overpriced. If this is the what they chose to commemorate their founding then hooray for new fragrance companies.

Opus 1870 succeeds where many others (Rocabar, Tuscany, Bijan Black for Men) fail. Others have a feeble or simple wood tone that surrenders to and becomes lost in a simple, sweet vanilla base. Opus 1870 flirts with sweetness and richness (it is an oriental, after all) but remains slightly reserved (perhaps a British style). Here is cedar which is deep, true, haunting, and evocative! Instead of heavy vanilla, the similar but more sophisticated balsamic notes of amber resins are employed. I did not find this to be peppery, and its spice is woody and very moderate (probably coriander). The dry-down of Opus 1870 is a real treat, it gets drier, woodier and more interesting. Excellent, very masculine and self-confident.

Starts of very Britsh, with notes of herb and citrus.Nothing suprprising by now, but the drydown was much more complex and even a little unexpected- it suddenly turned into a rather French-made note of moderate sweetness, leather and spice. Rich, almosdt gruondbreaking daring yet discreet, understated sweetness, partly woody, partly spicy, partly even fruity. An interesting answer to today's male fragrances where sweetness is far to overdone, not added sparingly, like an extra touch of class and individuality like in this one.