Pomegranate Noir (2005)
by Jo Malone

Like Coastfansocal, I got the hint of Vick's Vapor Rub, but not all that much camphor. I did not get the cedar chips in the hamster cage, but after a couple of hours, it has subsided and I can get some smoothness. Redhot candies, maybe that is what it might be on some. But I do say that the scent is not one to throw away after your first wear it. Have to give it some wearing, maybe like a Piper Nigrum. Many scents, I can tell from first sniff I won't like them, and those that have vanilla or powder, easily get tossed. Not so. This is my first Jo Malone sample to test, and while I tend to think this line gets less favored status, well, this is well made. I am going to give this a neutral, as I do not dislike it, but that Vick's Vapor Rub at first gets me. Now, someone remind me to come back and revisit this fragrance.

at the beginning, this smells exactly like cheap little cinnamon red hot candies. and I love it!

Pepper and fruit - is it the mutant offspring of Piper Nigrum and Millesime Imperial? No, not with that transparent incense and dark leather drydown. No mentholated cold remedy here for me; just a series of novel accords that keep me guessing right the way through.

I have to agree with Qaurry: this ranks with Cuir d'Oranger as one of the most pleasant frangrance surprises I've had in quite some time. Unisex in my opinion, and though it's not long lasting (4 hours tops) it is surprisingly potent for a cologne strength fragrance. I suppose I'll have to buy some in the fall...

...Six months later: my initial enjoyment of this scent has faded. I've come to find it overbearing and oppressive. While its novelty and quality are undeniable, I don't like the mood it puts me in.

Soothing plums guide frankincense and patchouli into a field of tangy pomegranate and blushing raspberries; who chime in with their own tartness and special zing. With exquisite depth, the pomegranate unravels to feature a myriad of scents; each reminiscent of something great. Dark cherry and cinnamon with dried leaves and sweet scarlet roses and a dash of honey-sweetness are just two of the multitude of creations that this wonderful fragrance can induce visions of. The pomegranate notes become apparent as fighters; as the scent settles on your skin and dries down, the pomegranate still lives and remains the top note. However, that doesn't mean that it dominates the scent and disallows a proper development; rather, the pomegranate allows a generous amount of woods to bleed through, while whoring the bitter notes. There is not much sweetness here, even with the influence of frankincense and raspberries. Rather than sweetening the scent as a whole, they serve to bite out the severe bitterness that such a strong pomegranate carries. Even with the presence of patchouli, containing this particular note of pomegranate is hard, but very well done -- the result is something that's shy of being bitter, but not bland. The fact that pomegranate is showcased here could have resulted in the scent being very linear and bland, but the design and structure of this scent is so well-done and rugged, that there is no room to think that it is merely pomegranate.

The drydown is, by far, the most unbelievable of any fragrance I have ever smelled. In fact, I wore this scent four different times in one day just to relive that experience. The pomegranate dies out, and patchouli, frankincense, and a touch of raspberry are left to work wonders on your nose. I almost sense some transparent rose notes; that may just be the earthy patchouli feeding the raspberry and playing even more tricks on my nose though. Regardless of what it is, the beauty of this lies in the fact that it can be so much to your nose... no two drydowns will be the same. I understand, though, that Pomegranate Noir is not everyone's cup of t-- err, bottle of fragrance, so therefore I will leave you with a metaphor: Pomegranate Noir is the ugliest girl in the world, with the most beautiful personality. You pick your poison. No scent is perfect, and few are daring and bold as this one is. A manly composition of pomegranate and sweet fruits is done justice by Jo Malone.

Overall rating: 10/10: Yet another high-quality composition we see here; the originality and the amount of effort put into this fragrance is superior to damn near every scent I have smelled.

I like this by itself but layer it with a tuberose or gardenia and it becomes even better. This lasts nicely all day on me.

No camphor here.

Top notes : Pomegranate, Pink Pepper, Raspberry

Middle notes : Plum, opopanax, frankincense

Base notes : Patchouli, Musk, Spicy Woods

The inspiration for Pomegranate Noir (PN) came to Jo Malone after she saw one of her friends dressed up in a red silk dress at a middle eastern hookah party all the while stuffing dollar bills in her cleavage. I have enjoyed the simple uncluttered soliflores of the Jo Malone line so the "Noir/Dark" label of this fragrance made me wonder if Malone was going all Lutens on us.

I shouldn't have worried. PN opens with a perplexing accord. Its sweet, lush and minty....and for a moment, does smell like Vicks vaporub except that there's a plummy fruity aroma enveloping this "vicks" accord. I am intrigued by how this minty fresh smell is engineered .. I don't see cloves listed in the notes pyramid, so the only explanation I can come up with is that PN is probably employing a variety of frankincense that is higher in its camphor (moth ball smell) content than the other constituents. Interms of fruitiness, this primary accord has all the hallmarks of a prune...it can be enjoyable and fun as well as occasionally grating and temperamental. While the incense does its camphor like thing, the distinctive sour and sweet smell of pomegranates is neutered by plenty of sweet raspberry and plum notes. PN loses much of its midnight vaporub funkiness after half and hour or so, and lets a timid patchouli note and some non-descript spicy woods base lead it to its quiet but not-so dark conclusion. The longevity is good..around 7 hours.

I admit I expected more "Noir" facets from this scent but knowing Malone's style I wasn't expecting a Jules or Vintage Tabarome. It says "Black Pomegranate" on the label after all, and that could mean "Over-ripe Pomegranates" for all I know. I would have liked more patchouli and spices, and less raspberry and plums in this concoction. Its more complex than other Malone's like Grapefruit and Amber Lavender but is also, strangely, less interesting. With that said, during the dog days of winter and nostril scraping flu attacks, I would still like to spray a spritz or two of PN on my chest before going to bed....I hear it attracts fairies in red silk dresses.

Rating: 7/10