Ahhhh, guys, it's funny to ascertain how much the previous Embruns D'Essaouira's reviews manage to herald (in a detailed way) the precise feeling I've felt while inhaling this fragrance layered on skin. Any prejudice towards the "ozonic/marine" range since there are several (in this olfactory "family") which I sincerely appreciate (Horizon Guy Laroche, Bvlgari Aqua, Kenzo Pour Homme, Aqua Quorum etc). The opening is tecnically cloying, chemical and even beyond the soapiness of some sporty (patchouli/ozonic patterns veined) Badedas or Palmolive's shower foams. This really salty fragrance seems indeed a failed attempt to reproduce the salty/organic/ozonic (freshly spicy and green tea veined) vibe we've previously admired (with far better outcomes) in fragrances a la Byblos Uomo (not the tea vibe), Bvlgari Pour Homme (the closest thing to this Montale's scent) or Chopard Heaven. Yes, an almost off putting, synthetic, "cardamomish" accord of calone, grapefruit, citronellol and galaxolide in the useless attempt to perform a sort of organic/marine/musky/balmy easy-going aroma with tea-like/freshly spicy hallmarks. The cedar/fresh spices/light citrus accord elicits in the air several Terre d'Hermes's nuances but of course the latter is far superior and more naturally performing (in a way that it is not musky-ozonic while more oriented towards a freshly herbal/woody/spicy territory). The dry down is a fist of chemical salty muskiness with tea/vetiver-like nuances. Emphasis apart the whole development is a really bad experience.
P.S: Along the way the situation partially changes but not in time to prevent the thumbs down (overly long the cloying transition). I detect the mentholated vibe too but it is like a part of a sort of green tea-like feel which is finally as much "central" as the ozonic/woody saltiness itself. After 2-3 hours the fragrance is like "dried", the synthetic-soapy vibe is far less notable, the tea-like note is dominant and the general aroma is far far better (a delicate woody/tea-like saltiness with a light spicy trail). Actually about the dry down my rating is neutral.
14th February, 2015 (last edited: 15th February, 2015)
A horrendous calone-menthol scent halfway a random 1990's ozonic fragrance and Colgate toothpaste, on a synthetic, metallic and slightly salty woody base with the same supermarket quality of the calone note. Had to scratch it off earlier than expected (yes, it's *that* bad), so I can't judge about the persistence, but I do hope it's short.
I marvel that this farrago of a fragrance comes from the same house that’s responsible for Black Aoud, Patchouli Leaves, and Oud Cuir d’Arabie. The artificial wood, spice, and Calone top notes are confused to the point of cacophony, but Embruns d’Essaouira soon finds its course. Unfortunately, it is a dismal route that arrives without detour at a crude, caustic, and chemical “aquatic” accord that smells like something I might use to clean my windows.
The chemical miasma is as potent and tenacious as it is ugly. So much so that after one interminable wearing, Embruns d’Essaouira displaces even the abysmal Only the Brave as the nastiest thing I’ve smelled all year. I can only hope that in the few days that remain of 2010 I inhale nothing worse. Just how bad is it? So bad that it leaves the banal Fougères Marines smelling like a work of genius. In fact, taken together, Embruns d’Essaouira and Fougères Marines offer a compelling argument against Montale’s ever straying from its familiar Arabian-inspired oudh and rose territory.
This scent was so terrible that it made me feel physically sick to smell. Everything about it smells wrong, and it nearly gave me a gag reflex. Even more repulsive than Sequoia on my skin. Had to scrub off immediately.
It smelled like someone took some twigs, algae, maybe some mold, threw it in a pile, then covered it liberally with iodine. Oh, and then forced you to smell it. Do not want, two thumbs down.
Fine aroma... Fresh and sensual