Patchouli and amber. Amber and patchouli. Patchouli Leaves is sweet, dark, rich, and sensuous. The amber and patchouli sit on a base of viscous vanilla, and the whole composition unfolds in a gratifyingly warm, smooth manner. I consider this a simple fragrance, but that doesn't make it any less enjoyable. It fills the same role for me as several other thick amber and patchouli scents, including Mazzolari Patchouli, Profumum's Patchouly, and Les Nereides Patchouli Antique, being a bit sweeter than most, and leaning more heavily on the amber as well. Interestingly, it is less tenacious on my skin than other heavy patchouli fragrances.
A decent patchouli featuring Montale's signature dull and unsubstantial plasticity: nuances ranging from rubbery, balsamic, dusty to salty and nutty, a woody base powdered with vanillin and that's it. You can hardly make a "soliflore" of patchouli smell bad, and in fact Patchouli Leaves it's not bad: if you like the note, patchouli smells always good, and here it is all about that – a full, dry patchouli. Nonetheless, "not smelling wrong" is obviously not enough to stand out from the crowd or however, does not turn into smelling good or great: and in fact, this is quite dull – decent, but dull. Not because of the fact it's basically a mono-note scent, but because of its quality – it's synthetic, pale, plain and mute like a school exercise. I would personally place this next to other low-quality patchouli's like Reminescence and that market segment, miles below the great ones like Etro and the very good ones like Patchouli Nobile. I'd define it unassuming and unpretentious, if it wasn't for the annoying and unjustified "niche look" (and pricing) of Montale.
10th March, 2014 (last edited: 23rd August, 2014)
Best patchouli ever made. Sorry Borneo and Coromandel, but you're a step below of Patchouli Leaves. Opening is raw and earthy, then join the vanilla and make it creamy and sexy. Projection is huge, same with lasting power (over 12hs).
The earthy aspect of patchouli, and the warm stone-scent aspects of cistus labdanum are the thread that joins these two key players in Patchouli Leaves. Sweetness isn’t hidden, but certainly isn’t pushed to the front. I find the patch that is there exactly the viscous, hippy patch that I was looking for. But it’s perfectly matched by amber, vanilla, and musk, which might make it sound candy sweet, but it isn't. They serve to add a rounded, cushioned feel. The whole fragrance reads like patchouli on a stack of pillows.
03rd May, 2012 (last edited: 22nd July, 2012)
Another fragrance based on a single note where the patchouli represents the backbone of the smell and the other notes, i mean amber, herbs, may be some spice and woods, whirl around the main element just in order to characterize it. First of all this fragrance starts its projection, and basically holds on to carry out, as an earthy patchouli far from the syrupy temperament of fragrances as Borneo 1834, although is not so straightforward as the Etro Patchouli and others. The main note appears after a sort of herbal and aromatic starting and takes the scene till the end being just a bit softened by the insertion of woods on a base of amber with a minimal whiff of vanilla. The note of oak is listed and i get it as that woody element that characterizes the vibe of patchouli for the main part of the development, till when it becomes obscure, a bit resinous, ambery and as many have written chocolatey ( as a dark chocolate because the smell is averagely sharp and the amber on the side of vanilla tame a bit the rootiness and make a whiff of obscure smoothness to carry out). I detect a touch of metal and humidity in the middle phase but I'm not able to qualify that feel and its provenance. Longevity and projection of this dark scent are really impressive.
25th November, 2011 (last edited: 27th December, 2013)