Bigarade Concentrée
by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

I find the top notes quite enjoyable. They give off a strong newly-peeled orange smell, quite vivid and realistic. For better or worse, this smell gets dirtier as it progresses, as though you've bitten into a decomposing part of an orange, yet continue to eat. I used to not like it, but my tolerance for funky off-notes has gone way up since I started this hobby, so I usually have a small decant on hand for the summer months.

Unlike others here, I don't have longevity issues - it lasts a fair while for a citrus. I do, however, have sillage issues, so I tend to reserve it for steamy days, when the sillage really radiates off the skin.

Bigarade Concentrée is sweet but lacks the clarity, zest and freshness one would expect from this type of fragrance. Also, its longevity is abysmal.

There are much better niche alternatives available on the market.

[Original submission date: 14 October 2006]

Frederic Malle Bigarade Concentree

I grew up next to an orange grove in S. Florida. Much to the chagrin of the grove owner I would spend many an afternoon up in the branches of his trees eating the, literal, fruit of his labors. Sitting up in the high branches of an orange tree with the tropical sun beating down on me, sweaty from climbing and covered in orange pulp and juice. That carried a unique scent for me that I thought I would never experience again as my orange tree climbing days are behind me. Until I had the good fortune to spray Jean-Claude Ellena's 2002 creation for Frederic Malle, Bigarade Concentree. This was a follow-up to his 2001 scent Cologne Bigarade also for Frederic Malle. Bigarade Concentree uses the same four central notes of bitter orange, rose, hay and cedar as Cologne Bigarade but the balance and intensity in Bigarade Concentree makes it a much superior scent. The top starts with the bitter orange but that bitter accord also carries a green, tree sap kind of quality with it too and it smells like the rinds of oranges ripening in the sun. There is a cumin like sweaty accord present here that is not accounted for in the note list. This has a very similar feel to Hermes Eau D'Hermes and as Ellena is a big fan of that scent I have a feeling it was intentional on his part, his homage to that scent. As that begins to fade the very lightest of roses appear and then this is followed by the dried grass note of hay and the clean lines of cedar which in conjunction smell just like the sun-baked branches of an orange tree. Despite having Concentree in the name this is a very light composition and I can see it being very fleeting on some skin types. Thankfully on my skin it lasts and allows an old man to revisit his orange tree climbing days of his youth without fear of injury.

An application of BC makes me weak of knee and clear of mind. Bears some resemblance to Mandragore, which I also like. Takes a bit greater quantity of juice than some other scents to achieve the desired radiation effect. Bravo, J-C Ellena, for navigating past sweet, sour and tart, arriving at the simple essence of the citrus tree, peel, seed. Company description: Bitter orange, rose, hay, cedar.

Bigarade Concentree is a good fragrance. I like it and will always have in the collection. I love almost all works Jean-Claude Ellena. Good luck it I wish.

An animalic citrus! I get loads of gorgeous bitter orange and bergamot, and then Bigarade Concentree becomes very ripe and sexy in a 'sweaty man' sort of way. That must be the cumin. Very interesting. Unlike other reviewers, I find this quite masculine and cannot imagine wearing it myself, even though there are many masculine fragrances I DO love and wear. This must remain on my 'smells great on others' list, and I have purchased this for several male friends. MOST attractive on them!