Perfume Directory

Ambre Russe (2005)
by Parfum d'Empire


Ambre Russe information

Year of Launch2005
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 296 votes)

People and companies

HouseParfum d'Empire
PerfumerMarc-Antoine Corticchiato

About Ambre Russe

Ambre Russe is a feminine perfume by Parfum d'Empire. The scent was launched in 2005 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato

Ambre Russe fragrance notes

Reviews of Ambre Russe

When I first put this on, I was trying to work out what this particular note was that was teasing my nose. Then I looked at the notes and realized what it was: vodka, with a herby note. I got to sample a beautiful gin on Christmas Eve – it’s a deep petrol blue in the bottle and in the glass, but when a tiny splash of soda water is added, it turns a gorgeous violet colour. This reminds me of that – the alcoholic tang of the gin but with a yummy fresh herbal/floral note. It’s warm and smoky thanks to the amber and incense and leather, but the spices lift it and give it a lovely kick. Sadly, longevity isn’t great, on me at least – barely two hours. Glad I got to try it though. While it lasts, it's lovely.
03rd January, 2018
Ambre Russe is a perfume of (sadly) unknown niche house Parfum d’Empire. Its founder and “main nose” of the brand is Marc Antoine Corticchiato, perfumer dedicated to the extraction of scented oils from natural materials. Aside from growing raw materials on Madagascar and creating inspiring and descriptive perfumes, he is also a lecturer at prestigious Ecole Internationale de Parfumerie de Versailles (ISIPCA).

One of the things I particularly like with Parfum d’Empire is the way they use natural materials. Although it is well known that synthetic aromachemicals are considered the skeleton of the perfumes while natural ones are the “meat,” the skill and knowledge of MA Corticchiato give the impression that every perfume is 100% natural. Although that is not possible or appealing to anyone, except maybe an isolated bunch of hippies drenched in patchouli, MA knows his stuff. The doom of most niche perfumer is for them to sometimes fool around. But not our hero. He knows his goal and that is creating perfumes inspired by the scents of great empires through history. And he’s doing a hell of a good job at it!

Just like the name says, Ambre Russe is an ode to amber. This is the most sensual, most eatable, most erotic amber there, and certainly my favorite. One can say it is hyperthrophied but I think is just apostrophized. The expansive sensuality of amber in Ambre Russe would be too much, over the top if you want, it the amber wasn’t given the soul in form of frankincense. Passion without the spirit is empty, like perfumes a la Scandal by Jean Paul Gaultier or Aoud by Roja Dove. But you don’t have to worry about that with Ambre Russe. The combination of leather, Russian tea, spices and amber…this divine, sensual amber will not leave a void but will intoxicate the senses and seduce the mind. Another advantage of this perfume is its paradigm linearity that could teach a lesson or two (or thousands) to many. What you sense at the beginning is what you will smell the entire day…Yes, its longevity is extraordinary. The perfume lingers and lingers even when all Duracell batteries, guaranas and African plums in the world give in. And the satisfaction is 100% guaranteed. The reason for low birth rate in this country in my oppinion is not the bad economic situation but because they are not importing Ambre Russe anymore.
04th November, 2017
Review of earlier styled bottle:

Ambre Russe by Parfum d'Empire is perhaps one of the most convincing and innovative amber fragrances in one's experience. It is a smoky, boozy amber, with the boozy aspects having been handled with a deft touch. There is the unmistakable sparkling opening alluding to champagne, laced with vodka, and a light touch of spice. There is soon a leathery aspect from the birch, and a remarkable note of smoky black tea develops. The amber grows in parallel, and wraps a warm, comforting shawl around the other elements.

Ambre Russe wears with an airy, persistent sillage and has excellent duration on skin. It balances its diverse elements to create a consistent, compelling composition that ranks among the best amber fragrances. Ambre Russe is highly evocative. It is unique, yet never sacrifices beauty or wearability. This is one of those rare cases where concept and execution are of the highest order.


Review of current version:

To clarify, I owned a bottle of the earlier version. I recently tried a sample from a trusted source. To my disappointment, this was more powerful but less nuanced, more spicy, and all the boozy, leathery notes meshed together with amber into a single thick accord that is less ingenious and more clunky and cluttered, and absolutely none of the wonderful black tea note.

I sincerely hope it was the sample, but please try before you buy.

3/5 (neutral)
29th August, 2017
Stardate 20170723:

Indian spice rack in benzoin shop.
Starts with a burst of spices - whiff you get when you walk in a spice shop.
As the time goes by the amber starts shining through and takes over spices. This is the best phase of this fragrance. The top is a bit to dry and spicy for me. I wish they had more amber up top.
This probably should have been called Amber Bengale and the other Fougere Russe.
24th July, 2017
I'd heard Parfum d'Empire Ambre Russe hyped pretty thoroughly and as a growing fan of amber-dominant scents, it's easier to be skeptical when the bar is set so high, but Ambre Russe lives up to the hype and more, being a slightly unconventional amber that nevertheless hits on a lot of great spots.

An unorthodox but seemingly thorough note lineup of vodka, champagne, leather, incense, cumin, coriander, vanilla, and ambergris, with the ambergris providing the name. The most dominant accords are the sweet liquor and vanilla combined with incense and leather, fostering a sweet, boozy, dark, smoky concoction that's quite pleasant while not being too sweet.

It's important to note that the ambergris doesn't provide the full amber experience (of a creamy, gourmand-like amber) but rather the animalic side of the substance. And the coriander and cumin combine to yield an animalic spiciness of their own, though all of animalic and spicy sides to the fragrance are subservient to the sweet and boozy.

Performance is quite good, with excellent longevity and well above average projection for hours for a niche EDP, and at $145 for 100ml (seemingly only available via Luckyscent in the US), it's worthwhile in my book and one that is surely on my list of future acquisitions, perhaps for the coming autumn. It's not quite as exceptional as my very favorite amber-dominant fragrances, Tom Ford Amber Absolute and Dior Mitzah, but it's right up there in the next tier down.

8 out of 10
20th March, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom
A boozy and slightly cinnamon-laced amber. Softly glowing and delicious the amber is, wamr and wintery.

The drydown adds tea and incence spices, nut quite faded in the base.

The sillage is moderate, the projection is very good and the longevity tem hours.

Autumnal, and very smooth and ambery - 3.25/5.
21st January, 2017

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