Cittá di Kyoto (2005)
by Santa Maria Novella

I find the comparison to Daim Blond to be spot on. In a way, this interpretation even more evokes the feeling of suede in its fuzzy/powdery texture. The longevity seems to be fine on me, but it is a subdued fragrance. I would have to say that after a couple of hours maybe it hasn't let me down as much as the Lutens in terms of devolution/fading... I'm glad I came back to it after not really thinking much of it on first test.

On my skin it starts with iris and sandalwood. I get very little citrussy notes and no fruit/peach at all (thankfully). The florals then change into a light, incensy wood. It's quite different from other incense scents such as CdG or Passage d'Enfer. Citta' di Kyoto only has traces of incense which lingers. The longevity isn't great but as an EdC it's not completely unexpected. Plus there's just so much of it. I wouldn't worry about using it up too quickly.

Quite weak throughout all it's stages -- lovely top notes though. It then becomes ephemeral and after 2-3 hours, a barely discernible soft peach. I don't want or should need to re-apply at this price. Actually found a lot of the range disappointing after all the hype heaped. Melograno was nice though (but will it last?)

Kaern

I get a floral opening backed up by a dim but rich, rather exotic wood base. I am not familiar with the particular flower that opens the fragrance but the accord certainly includes iris – a somewhat powdery iris. There’s a slight fruit note in the background, but I barely notice it. The fragrance seems to move into a no man’s land with the middle notes: I get texture – a cool floral texture that is a bit sweet but not highly floral. By the middle level, the woods have regained more prominence – they give off an almost incense feeling. The woody drydown reinforces the feeling of the distant and the mystic. It is very light and it doesn’t last long. I like this fragrance even though it really is too subtle for my taste. The notes in it are contemplative and the fragrance is more subtlety exotic than showy. Too bad it’s gone so quickly...

Something different, refreshing, unique. Interesting development, like heads and tails of the same coin. First, a fresh, peppery, dry combination of iris, lotus, and cedar. The aroma reminds me of shiso, a Japanese herb. Then comes a brief awkward phase before Citta di Kyoto flips over--becoming a sweet, delicate peach, with some of the same clean, herbal touches. As an incense fragrance, it is less smoky than Passage d'Enfer, and has none of the ashes. Must wear it on the skin to experience this remarkable fragrance development.

Opens with a lovely incense note and some sweet spices, then dries down quickly to a soft, fruity leather that reminds me very much of Serge Lutens' Daim Blond. As scenteur7 says, it doesn't hang around for too long, either.