Il Mio Sogno (1939)
by Borsari

Having experienced the lightness of several other Borsari fragrances, Il Mio Sogno came as a complete surprise. Although still not overpowering, this one is complex, dark, edgy, and sensual. And it has in abundance two of my favorite notes. First, I love a competently presented rosewood in a fragrance, and this one does a brilliant job with that versatile, elegant, and somewhat exotic wood note; I also love the way the rosewood is combined with the coriander, and the citruses of the opening. The rosewood continues into the heart accord by combining with the florals: I get the hint of rose, but the strongest floral coming through is the gardenia, complete with all the indoles that that gardenia can muster. The indoles note is the second of my favorite notes. To my nose, the indoles form the foundation of the fragrance while the rosewood acts in combination with the indoles to create such an excellently elegant and sensual motif. From this point, the gardenia indoles gain control and the rosewood is gradually lost in transition. The top and heart have good longevity. In the base, the indoles from the gardenia continue and add a discreet incense to the accord. There’s a green vetiver in the accord, too, and a touch of moss to supply some earthiness to the mix. The base loses intensity, becomes a bit soapy, and becomes a skin scent that has very good longevity but stays extremely close – there’s no sillage at all. I think that this fragrance is reminiscent of the ‘40s feminine chypres; but even with its older heritage, I wonder why it is not better known. I really love it.

23rd August, 2008.