Il Profumo - Vanille Bourbon
This one shows how difficult, and easy, it can be to make a 'vanilla' that smells classic yet modern. It manages to stay away from the too screamy, high-pitch vanillin-ones, sweet and with the very obvious creamy-note, too familiar and dull. Although vanilla contains for about 95% vanillin, the other 5% gives it a dark and dirty-earthy touch, that makes real vanilla(absolute) so thrilling. This perfume catches a perfectly pitched tone and sings it effortlessly. Not only delicious and very edible but also fresh, broad and complex smelling. Instead of being too clean, creamy-smooth, it has more of a very cool-fresh, clear subtle and slightly raw character. So very well balanced that it puts me in that now-and-wow sweetspot where everything is Zen- it just feels so comfortable and luscious, but also very grounded. Its gets a gingerbread-like, and a cold-sweet resinous-note that gives it backbone. But the best thing about it is that it has a slight salty-animalic touch in its character- which makes a very nice counteract against the sweet and creamy smoothness. The dryout has that toasted-note of hot and dry earth in it, which means that real Bourbon vanilla was used here. A very good 'vanilla'- and to my taste, this is the best in the field.
01st May, 2014 (last edited: 08th May, 2014)
The opening is a cloying vanilla-aldehydes bomb, not even "gourmand", rather "your sister's car freshener". It eventually becomes a bit more gentle settling on a pleasant vanilla-talcum accord, but still lacking in any possible interest. Not bad but plain and pointless.
Rich and boozy vanilla
The rich and whiskey-boozy vanilla hits me from the start - with a nice orange-blossom whiff and a bit of at times emerging in the drydown. Nonetheless, this is a vanilla scent. The sweetness is bearable and never cloying on my skin in spite of its intensity. Silage and projection are monstrous in the first hours and good until the end, and on me this is a longevity monster: over nine hours. Great for a sunny winter day.
A vanilla based scent that possesses in its body something arcane that is a reminiscence of the candid and powdery cleanliness of the childwood. Some talc and aromatic dust tickle your nose and just an hint of rosey wind fluctuates in the air. I love the note of eliotrope that is present in the blend and that produces that edible and tasty sort of touch that reminds me the Christmass of my youth. The fragrance is clear, soft, dry and evocative. The base is ambery vanilla and powder. I smell something neutral as in some white bath foams and the smell is too linear to turn out enough sophisticated and complex. Not bad and romantic anyway. Because of its candid whiteness it reminds me a bit the confortable Ambre et Vanille by E. Coudray.
Gently boozy vanilla that is somehow tolerably over the top sweet for me. I love it layered over Donna Karan's Wenge. The woody scent anchors and tempers the sugar and gives the entire thing endurance and a touch of complexity. I am strongly drawn to vanillas in general, but usually end up getting tired of them - happened to me with Luten's Bois Vanille. But this one suits me better somehow. Probably because I love scotch.
It is simply wonderful. Too bad it does not last.