Idole de Lubin (2005)
by Lubin

Idole de Lubin

Every great artist has their moment where they don't connect with me. Spielberg directed a misfired attempt at romantic comedy in Always. Jean-Claude Ellena decided to try an aquatic with Cartier Declaration Bois Bleu. These are examples where trademark assets of the artist are used in the wrong milieu and create a mistake, for me. Olivia Giacobetti has created some of my favorite scents, she has a style that allows you to feel as if you're experiencing a scent through a light layer of linen in translucent waves. When she chooses her milieu correctly she creates scents like L'Artisan Tea for Two. Frederic Malle En Passant or Costes. When she chooses poorly, as she did in 2005, she creates Idole de Lubin. Mme Giacobetti clearly was looking to adapt her light quality to a boozy, spicy, leather-based scent. The only problem for me is that when I want a scent like that I don't want it to be held at arm's length. I want it to be like a shot of rum which explodes on my senses and I feel it all over. Idole de Lubin holds true to Mme. Giacobetti's aesthetic and that keeps it from working for me. The top of Idole is an ethereal mix of rum, saffron and cumin. They are expertly balanced but they are so lightly apparent on my skin that it seems like they are only present for a heartbeat. They are quickly overwhelmed by a woody accord of sandalwood and another note that is more astringent which, according to the note list, must be doum palm. Here I'm almost glad this is being held at arm's length as the woodiness seems out of balance with the sheer spices of the top. The base turns into a lovely leather and here the opaque quality, that Mme. Giacobetti has used to detriment in Idole, actually works well and the leather applied with a light hand is the best part of Idole de Lubin, for me. Idole de Lubin has good longevity but like most of Mme. Giacobetti's scents does not project very much. Idole de Lubin will go down as one of those noble failures by one of my favorite perfumers.

Spicy, smoky, boozy, and ambery -- opening with light citrus and saffron laid on a bed of sandalwood and rum. This is very very lovely. Stronger and more direct than Giacobetti's other works, but still quite ephemeral.

I was looking forward to trying this from all the good reviews here, but I was disappointed. The notes look so good, but I get smoke and not so much booze. I had a sample of 1270 on one wrist and Idol on the other and asked my wife her opinion. After having them on for about a half hour she said 1270 ok and Idol not so good. This is only my second thumbs down.

I'll admit that I wasn't especially overwhelmed by this juice when I tried it last winter. Although I certainly found this boozy, syrupy, (very) slightly citrus concoction compelling and likeable, it seemed to lack the OOMPH! factor that would compel me to purchase a bottle.

My opinion of Idole changed when I wore it on the first day of summer (here in South Carolina - about 95 deg. F / 70% humidity). I had originally balked at the notion of wearing this brew under such conditions (for reasons I can’t quite pinpoint), but I have to say that it resulted in an almost perfect fragrance experience.

Although I wasn’t exactly doing manual labor while wearing it, Idole seemed to meld very well with and be accentuated by what perspiration did occur when I was outdoors. The fragrance never “turned” like many that are actually marketed as summer frags. The heat made what originally struck me as a too subtle fragrance into one that had presence without being obnoxious (obviously, don’t go dousing yourself with it, though). I’m sure this is a little tricky considering Idole's inherent warmth.

Seriously, if you’re not going to wear a fragrance touting rum absolute, sugar cane, and doum palm as key components during the summertime, when are you going to wear it?

Have to get a bottle of this stuff, it's instantly my OTHER favorite "boozy" scent next to By Kilian's Straight to Heaven. Can't ever get enough RUM!!!

Is this the tackiest bottle in the world? Strong contender for sure...

Idole de Lubin is a marvel created by no less than the stunning Olivia Giacobetti. Her work prior to this was about whispers, pale colours, and instants. I for one am delighted she decided to embrace a different approach for Idole.

The opening gives me booze, spice, and saffron; the brightest saffron accord. A subtle citrus manages to round out the experience and provide an overall balance so it never becomes too vibrant in any way. The heart is full of warmth, sweet and spicy; one might detect cumin. If one could match textures to a fragrance I'd nominate syrup to this phase of its development.

This gem continues to shine in the dry-down where it becomes a comfort scent. Here I'd match it to velvet. I get a beautiful blend of warm woods and amber; this is 6 hours after application and what an amazing ride it's been!