Reviews of Idole de Lubin (2005)
by Lubin

Idole de Lubin

Every great artist has their moment where they don't connect with me. Spielberg directed a misfired attempt at romantic comedy in Always. Jean-Claude Ellena decided to try an aquatic with Cartier Declaration Bois Bleu. These are examples where trademark assets of the artist are used in the wrong milieu and create a mistake, for me. Olivia Giacobetti has created some of my favorite scents, she has a style that allows you to feel as if you're experiencing a scent through a light layer of linen in translucent waves. When she chooses her milieu correctly she creates scents like L'Artisan Tea for Two. Frederic Malle En Passant or Costes. When she chooses poorly, as she did in 2005, she creates Idole de Lubin. Mme Giacobetti clearly was looking to adapt her light quality to a boozy, spicy, leather-based scent. The only problem for me is that when I want a scent like that I don't want it to be held at arm's length. I want it to be like a shot of rum which explodes on my senses and I feel it all over. Idole de Lubin holds true to Mme. Giacobetti's aesthetic and that keeps it from working for me. The top of Idole is an ethereal mix of rum, saffron and cumin. They are expertly balanced but they are so lightly apparent on my skin that it seems like they are only present for a heartbeat. They are quickly overwhelmed by a woody accord of sandalwood and another note that is more astringent which, according to the note list, must be doum palm. Here I'm almost glad this is being held at arm's length as the woodiness seems out of balance with the sheer spices of the top. The base turns into a lovely leather and here the opaque quality, that Mme. Giacobetti has used to detriment in Idole, actually works well and the leather applied with a light hand is the best part of Idole de Lubin, for me. Idole de Lubin has good longevity but like most of Mme. Giacobetti's scents does not project very much. Idole de Lubin will go down as one of those noble failures by one of my favorite perfumers.

Spicy, smoky, boozy, and ambery -- opening with light citrus and saffron laid on a bed of sandalwood and rum. This is very very lovely. Stronger and more direct than Giacobetti's other works, but still quite ephemeral.

I was looking forward to trying this from all the good reviews here, but I was disappointed. The notes look so good, but I get smoke and not so much booze. I had a sample of 1270 on one wrist and Idol on the other and asked my wife her opinion. After having them on for about a half hour she said 1270 ok and Idol not so good. This is only my second thumbs down.

I'll admit that I wasn't especially overwhelmed by this juice when I tried it last winter. Although I certainly found this boozy, syrupy, (very) slightly citrus concoction compelling and likeable, it seemed to lack the OOMPH! factor that would compel me to purchase a bottle.

My opinion of Idole changed when I wore it on the first day of summer (here in South Carolina - about 95 deg. F / 70% humidity). I had originally balked at the notion of wearing this brew under such conditions (for reasons I can’t quite pinpoint), but I have to say that it resulted in an almost perfect fragrance experience.

Although I wasn’t exactly doing manual labor while wearing it, Idole seemed to meld very well with and be accentuated by what perspiration did occur when I was outdoors. The fragrance never “turned” like many that are actually marketed as summer frags. The heat made what originally struck me as a too subtle fragrance into one that had presence without being obnoxious (obviously, don’t go dousing yourself with it, though). I’m sure this is a little tricky considering Idole's inherent warmth.

Seriously, if you’re not going to wear a fragrance touting rum absolute, sugar cane, and doum palm as key components during the summertime, when are you going to wear it?

Have to get a bottle of this stuff, it's instantly my OTHER favorite "boozy" scent next to By Kilian's Straight to Heaven. Can't ever get enough RUM!!!

Is this the tackiest bottle in the world? Strong contender for sure...

Idole de Lubin is a marvel created by no less than the stunning Olivia Giacobetti. Her work prior to this was about whispers, pale colours, and instants. I for one am delighted she decided to embrace a different approach for Idole.

The opening gives me booze, spice, and saffron; the brightest saffron accord. A subtle citrus manages to round out the experience and provide an overall balance so it never becomes too vibrant in any way. The heart is full of warmth, sweet and spicy; one might detect cumin. If one could match textures to a fragrance I'd nominate syrup to this phase of its development.

This gem continues to shine in the dry-down where it becomes a comfort scent. Here I'd match it to velvet. I get a beautiful blend of warm woods and amber; this is 6 hours after application and what an amazing ride it's been!

WHAT? Olivia Giacobetti? No way. If I had to guess, I would have pinned this one on Serge Lutens/Christopher Sheldrake! There are plenty of apt reviews of Idole. For my nose, it comes across as a love child of Feminite du Bois and Serge Noire. Idole also bends the gender, it's completely unisex IMO. It also smells hot. The spices give it that kick. I love it on myself, and can't wait to drizzle some onto my husband! Thumbs up.

Absolutely stunning! I am a very picky person when it comes to colognes, and always walk away regretting my purchases. But not this time. Got this from Libertine in Brisbane, apparently i'm the first person in Australia to have it.

I was after something crisp, citrussy, with great longevity, and finally found it! The person next to you can smell it, but very faintly, because its a perculiar scent, it will draw them in. The closer you get to the skin, the better the smell! The girls adore it, I luv it, what else can I say? When my bottle runs out, i'm getting another...

Best purchase i've ever made!

Slightly smoky, spicy, woody with a touch of citrus and booze over sandalwood and leather. Olivia Giacobetti designed this one for Lubin, and made a splash in a new pond. By that, I mean this is not her usual style — she usually has more subtlety and finesse than this, but less gumption; here she has dropped some of the reserve and picked up a bit more edgy energy. There are curious notes in the pyramid (the cult of the exotic?) like doum palm and black cumin. This is a great cool-to-cold weather scent, bringing warmth and soothing vibes into the mix with the up-tempo, more typically masculine notes. Decent longevity and good sillage (while it lasts) are positives for this juice; the only small negative is that it could be a bit more tenacious. Overall, very nice: comfortable, but not boring; trendy, but not outré.

Irresisitible. Warm, sweet, little bit smoky and dark, with wonderfully juicy, spiced dried fruitiness. Very plummy and raisiny. Chistmas comes to mind immediately.

Off course is has that certain boozy thing going on. I guess the whole scent could be described shortly as a glass full of dark caribean rum with couple of tablespoons of smoked maple syrup thrown along.
Yes, it smells alot like this, but for sure its eventually quite a bit more complex tale than that. Find out yourself.

Lasting power could be slightly better, but I have no bigger complaints.

Marvelous bottle made by Serge Mansau (not Lutens) is probably one of the best ever created.

The opening is a spicy (like cardamom, cloves, nutmeg)/boozy (rum) blast that quickly mellows into a scent that's more dry, woody and spicy with an underlying saffron note that evokes L'Artisan's Saffron Troublant. This is the stage that lasts the longest for me and as I keep smelling my wrists I'm also reminded of Donna Karan's Black Cashmere and Tea for Two, another L'Artisan. However, Idole has it's own thing going. Way into the drydown, it's all about warm, sweet, creamy woods with amber. I would like to get a leather note, but my nose doesn't seem to be picking that one up. The final stages of this are so mellow and warm that I do consider this a comfort scent and I didn't even realize that this was supposed to be for men until I went to write this review and saw that the majority of the reviewers that weighed in on it were men. I disagree. I think it's definitely a sent that can be worn by a woman as well.

I don't find the bottle design "trashy" at all. I think it's a gorgeous design that's obviously been influenced by the Art Deco period.

I enjoyed the dry, sunny spiciness of this -- seemed like a good, dark summer scent, sort of sexily unisex and bohemian, and somehow simple-seeming, though I guess it's actually pretty complex. I even like the campy exoticism of the name and silly bottle. However, Idole naggingly reminded me of a scent I prefer: PG's Coze, and on comparing I found them quite similar, except that Idole lacked the percolating, teasing, beady note that makes me love Coze. I sampled them together -- after a two hour air-conditioned car ride they had both vanished. (I comfirmed this with my sniffers). Seductive but terribly fleeting and sadly I'm old enough now to know better.

If I liked amber scents (which I generally don't), I think I would enjoy Idole de Lubin very much. It is a warm, well blended spicy amber-ish fragrance with a dollop of rum in the top note that could be very wearable on a winter's day. Idole de Lubin is essentially a gentle interpretation of spices and amber (Olivia Giacobetti signature light touch is evident) which is similar to Becker Eshaya's Golden Amber. It is miles away (thankfully) from its rocket fueled spice-cousin, Frapin 1270. I also think it should be said that Idole de Lubin’s bottle is a touch trashy, in a 1970's sort of way...

Here are the notes, courtesy of Luckyscent: Rum absolute, saffron, bitter orange peel, black cumin, Doum palm, smoked ebony, sugar cane, leather, red sandalwood.

I think this is Olivia Giacobetti's strongest I've encountered. It has all of the rums, spices, and depth that I love, but is blended so masterfully that it just becomes an almost indescribable beauty that really draws you in. Big thumbs up and very satisfied purchase.

Vibert's comments express almost exactly my own experience of this one. Like the man says, it is quite a challenging fragrance and I like that about it - keeps my interest, both sensually and intellectually. I'm on the verge of struggling with many aspects of it, especially the amber/palm/sugar/red sandalwood sweetness in the dry down. All in all, although I really enjoy the creativity and artfulness of Idole, for me it is an occasional treat rather than a regular indulgence.

It is 68 outside, I am in the car, air conditioning blowing on me and I am wearing Idole. I am in short sleeves, so I sprayed it on my forearms as well as other areas. Wow. I had worn Idole from a sample and wife thought it bordered on soapy. Well, from a spray, it is not. Ladies, this is the scent for a guy. I love Miller Harris Feuilles de Tabac because of that fresh tabacco accord. Some fresh colognes can be soapy, or too linen-like. Feuilles is that fresh, green tobacco. Anyway, think of Feuilles as a tomato base for a sauce. Well, Idole is the refined French chef that comes and mixes in a naunced bit of spices, nothing heavy, but spicy. Makes you want to try to pick out the individual notes (which I am so, so bad at). A heavy hand and it ruins the sauce. But in the hands of a master, wow. The spices are piquant, but not in your face like Piper Nigrum. I think this would work in cool to hot weather, all but the winter. Now, admittedly, the air conditioning blew the scent around in the car, but hey, it is me and a 30 minute drive. With long sleeves and business wear, very appropriate for the office. My wife usually does not give a thumbs up to colognes (she loves her Coco, her SPring Flowers - and GIT and MI on me - and that is it) but she smelled it this morning and said, not bad. So that right there is a 7 out of 10 on the meter. Yup, gonna be a good day today.

The first night I wore this my girlfriend practically devoured me.

Thumbs, er, UP!

Smells like the dried planks of an old wooden ship in drydock. This ship happens to be in drydock for repairs and the deck is saturated with grog and seawater from long voyages from the spice islands delivering precious safforn, cinnamon and sugars.

What a genius we have in Olivia Giacobetti! She has already confirmed herself the queen of light and air in fragrances like En Passant, Hiris, and Philosykos, but with Idole she surprises me by setting off into the unfamiliar realm of darkness. As far as I’m concerned, her first campaign is entirely successful, too!

The opening strikes the nose with aged rum, citrus rind, and “black cumin,” which I believe is actually nigella seed. For those who fear cumin as a “stinky” note, be assured that nigella smells nothing like cumin. It is a sharp, dry, and peppery scent with discreet floral overtones. Pungent aromatic notes and an unusually tart amber soon follow, accompanied by a semi-sweet exotic note that just might be the listed doum palm. A pleasantly bitter saffron note prevents the blend from becoming overly sweet. What’s conspicuously lacking in this scent is any strong floral note. In this respect Idole resembles that other luminous, sensuous masterpiece, Musc Ravageur, though the two actually smell nothing alike.

As Idole develops it becomes conspicuously smoky, and then reveals a somewhat fruity leather note. The drydown is spicy, amber tinted leather and woods, and it persists for hours on the skin. Idole exhibits strong projection and leaves a generous but never stifling trail of sillage. The extended and complex development makes Idole something of a genre bender. At times it behaves like a spicy oriental. At others it becomes more of a smoky leather or a deep woody scent. In all phases it is unique, though also challenging. Not everyone will find this scent easy to wear, or even attractive.

Idole is not only a novel and complex scent: it’s also an exercise in paradoxes. It manages to be at once dark and luminous, like a single ember in a blackened room. Despite its depth it’s not at all ponderous either. Instead, wearing Idole is like wearing a black gauze veil. I get a sense of happy anticipation when I put it on.

This is a very very unique scent, and I love to smell it! A masterpiece!

But there is a big problem: It just stays on your skin and it does not spread at all. My skin absorbs it totally!
Does anyone know if it is possible to make this fragrance get noticed?

A couple got together for a night on the town. She wore Donna Karan Black Cashmere. He wore Bulgari Black. They drank rum until the gal got sick and threw up in her leather purse which contained Red Hots candy and stale cigarettes.

That said -- I've smelled worse. And I believe that on the right guy, the drydown on Idole might be pleasant. Clearly something you have to sample for yourself.

Idole smells like a 70s guy about midway through the disco. There's a slightly sour note that might be the saffron and bitter orange together, and a sweat edge that says he needs to change his shirt. Smoke and a certain 'cologne' note from the sandalwood and rum complete the picture of polyester-clad, slightly ripe dude rocking out to the glitter ball music. It's not an all-out gross sweat scent, but there's definitely a fragrance portrait here that has zero appeal for me.

I had high hopes, but have to turn in a neutral verdict. A newbie described it on The Forum as what he'd expect a 16th century pirate to smell like--I can't top that comment!

It has strong sillage and enormous longevity, but in this case, that's not a favorable comment.

Rum Absolute is like nitroglycerin, and here it explodes in your face from the get go.

Perhaps Giacobetti did include other notes as listed but you'll have to wait all day for them to come forth.

Cool bottle and an interesting idea, but way over the top. Neutral.

Exotic and exquisite. Dramatic opening. Black cumin? It seems as if there is black pepper in there—whatever it is, its combination with the rum and the bitter orange is wonderful … and smoky. The alcohol note gradually fades, leaving only its memory, and what remains in the heart notes are the continuation of the bitter orange, a smoky wood note, and the bit of sweetness that the scent has always had—another excellent accord, but it, too, could use a better longevity. The dry down is a beautiful wood / leather, a combination that echoes the attitude of the top and heart. As captivating as the individual notes in Idole are, they are not aggressive or raw, and there is a delicate transparency and refinement in its progressions and its total ambiance.

Idole is certainly exquisite. I love the allure and uniqueness of it. And yet it is a textbook example of a classic scent—the smooth movements of its pyramid levels, the interplay and sequential mutations of the notes in the accords; the perfect balance of sweet and dryness; and the use of wood as the stable background to the exotic accords of spices, greens, and smoke. All accomplished with refinement, delicacy, and creativity. Idole is a lovely fragrance that is extremely wearable but could have more longevity.

Spicy, boozy, woody, warm, and dark, but not really a comfort scent - to my nose, this is more of a social scent. It opens with a prominent whiskey note, which is sweetened just enough to balance the very dry woodsiness underneath. As it dries, the spices come forward, the whiskey fades, but the slight sweetness remains. Going into the base, it's the wood and sweetness that still linger, with maybe just a touch of vetiver. Toward the base, it reminds me a tiny bit of Timbuktu, probably because of the dry, smoky wood note (really though, on the whole, they don't smell much alike).

I don't mean to suggest this is an overly sweet scent - it's not. It's boozy while avoiding those overripe fruit notes that can sometimes be off-putting, often reminding people of urine or puke. This scent has none of that. Idole is airier (that Giacobetti signature touch, as others have put it) than Le Dandy, Ambre Russe, or Frank no.2, all I which I also consider to be "boozy" scents. It's not as sweet as Le Dandy or Ambre Russe. It's smoother and more refined than Frank no. 2, and less overtly "masculine." Idole, because of it's "airy" and modern touch, is also more versatile than any of the other "boozy" scents I listed - I could see wearing this for a special dinner, a night out, a day at the office, or a house party. It's sort of a classy party scent, if that makes sense. And it lasts surprisingly long. After I put it on and it dries, it seems to disappear totally when the whiskey fades, but then I catch whiffs of it again throughout the day. It smells wonderful on my shirt at the end of the day.

I have not yet had to buy a bottle of this because for some reason I keep on receiveing spray samples of it from Lubin! Once those are gone though, I may need to find a bottle of this. Each time I wear it, I like it a bit more and enjoy its versatility. Obviously, I am thumbs-up on this one.

I absolutely adore Idole de Lubin. This to me is the perfect blend of sweet/spicy, mystery and in-your-face passion and delight. I think the rum/burnt sugar elements that anchor the scent aare what make it differently perfect for me. I am saving to buy the full bottle, this one is next for me. The perfect cool weather scent, which can also be worn as a summer indulgence.

I love this one, and immediately ordered a decant to have ready when the cooler temperatures of autumn start. Even in the warmth of August this dark, boozy, delicious, warm fragrance is irresistible. What a comfy deep leather, so approachable and lovable, yet all you want from a deep leather. I've heard comments on both poor staying power and sillage, yet neither were a problem for me. I wouldn't want any more sillage than it has - it sort of wafts off my skin when I move. Anything more assertive would be too much with a strong, sensual fragrance like this. I consider Idole a "dabber" instead of a "sprayer".

Mmm, warm, sweet, spicy, exotic, woody, boozy, dark. I really love the rum and saffron notes. It's a bit like a stronger, better, spicier version of Liquid Karl, the perfume Karl Lagerfelt made for H&M. The "warm bread" note in that one is evocative of the warm, cosy sweetness of Idole. The only problem is, each time I put my nose to my wrist to smell it I get a vague hint of vomit, it's that sweet and musty. When I continue smelling it it goes away and I only feel the lovely spices and woods and rum but it is a bit offputting...

What an exquisite composition!

Idole sparkles darkly like opening a chest of old jewellery lined with velvet. A rich blend of delicious spice, rum liquor and smoky wood with the brightness of bitter orange peel soaring above, Exotic, complex and beautiful.

This is lovely -- reminiscent of Donna Karan's (discontinued) Chaos, which was perhaps a bit more leathery and less spicy. There's a nod to Tea for Two, also, but Idole is unique, thanks to the floatiness that reviewer Leopoldo referred to and the subtle sweetness, which after a while seems faintly floral, although no flower notes are listed. I'm anxious to try Lubin's other scents.

This is one scent I am interested in trying. Sounds exactly like me.
benb

This is one of the most intriguing and delicious smells I have ever come across. Be warned however, that there is ZERO sillage on this one - even with multiple sprays. Such a shame.

Totally awesome scent! A spicy start followed by a woody and insense-like finish, also with a subtle sweetness probably due to the sugar cane. somewhere in there reminds me a bit of Timbuktu and Santal Noble but with some smokiness. This is definitely a top 5 scent of all time, a superb new fragrance from Lubin in a new century!

This is a gloriously rich and boozy creation but with that Giacobetti touch, meaning it also floats, every nuance seemingly etched out of cloud. It shares the precision of something like 'Tea for Two' but is wholly different as a scent. As soon as it's available in the UK, I'm getting a bottle. Hell, I might even get on the Eurostar for one.