Terre d'Hermès (2006)
by Hermès

I received a sample of it very shortly after its release and thought it was a bit heavy and generally unimpressive. I still think the sillage and longevity are almost out of control, probably thanks the oft-discussed chemical additive ISO E Super.

The opening simply sparkles and fizzes. I think of a freshly squeezed, icy cold glass of limeade. Soon after, subtle (pink?) pepper notes unfold and balance out what the blast of citrus. For me, the scent retains this general smell of freshing lime and pepper while getting woodier, dryer, and smoother. Not sweeter: I hardly smell benzoin here, unless the all of the benzoin's typical sweetness was removed and whatever mineralic notes that remain were used. Whatever the case, this scent has a distinctly natural, windswept aura about it. I do tend to go back and forth on it, but overall I respect it and like it.

The first thing I notice in Terre d'Hermes is vetiver, tempered with a very light touch of citrus. Dry woody notes soon follow, and I think that these, in combination with the vetiver, create the "earthy" or "soil" accord so often noted in this scent.

The woods and vetiver stay very much front and center, rounded out by some very discreet floral notes. I get an occasional whiff of spice and incense, especially in the remarkably pronounced sillage. There is also an unusual note that suggests ash. Not tobacco ash, and not smoke, but old, cold ash, as from a long abandoned fireplace. The drydown reveals quite a bit of conifer, which melds with the vetiver in a lingering "forest" accord that I find quite pleasant.

I place Terre d'Hermes as a cumin-free, vetiver-seasoned derivative of Elléna’s earlier Déclaration. Terre d’Hermès is every bit as dry as Déclaration, but it’s also a cleaner, less angular, and less aggressive scent, which may account for its great popularity. It’s still a somewhat austere fragrance, though very easy to wear and very unlikely to offend. For this reason I could see it as a really fine business or office scent. A perfectly good, if not a terribly exciting fragrance, and certainly nothing that I have to own.

The scent evokes memories of an afternoon rainfall over sun-baked red earth and scorched clay. I found myself back in the infantry unit again as Bravo company made that 20 mile trek across desert terrain to reach the rendezvous point. Warm, desert-dry and ruggedly masculine, TERRE D'HERMES is another fantastic creation from perfume wizard Jean-Claude Ellena.

Red hot pepper spread out over "dried"vetiver on a base of woods left out in scorching desert heat...i can feel the heat waves...not a hint of sweetness ..the image it pictures for me is that of a desert with those handful of shrubs/weed growing in horizon..an acquired taste. once you get it, nothin else cud possibly replace it...ahh well, Montale erd Vetyver just might, but then..

I've worn Terre d'Hermes for the last 2 years, mostly during 2007-08.

It was love at first sniff. The top notes of citrus are uniquely implemented, and the progression to an earthy accord accentuated by vetiver is brilliant. Ultimately its popularity might be its downfall. I will always own and respect it even if I don't wear it as often these days.

Quite a simple, yet effective presentation of a kind of "terroir" smell: the smell of a piece of land and its associated vegetation. The much-discussed silica or flint note here seems to me really the product of pepper and geranium notes augmented by dry, woody notes, though there is likely some synthetic that tweaks that into a bit more stony vibe. The citrus top seems to acquire a greener feel under the influence of these. Some people complain about sillage and longevity of this scent, but I find the base notes do a good job of fixation, even though the sparkling nature of the top notes does dissipate relatively quickly. This is an intellectually satisfying piece, rather than an emotional one. I can't bring myself to think of it as sexy, but then, they don't all need to be that. This is very good just as it is, when worn for what it's good for. Keep it on tap for cool, uncomplicated occasions.