Another blind buy as my search for discontinued and pre-IFRA regulated perfumes (musks in particular) forces my hand and my credit card.
On first sniff I found it utterly gag-worthy, so many notes in common with Secretions Magnifique by Etat Libre d’Orange. It's a big civety skank bomb, skank skank skank skankpooskankpooSKANK! Slightly "drainy", slightly "full nappy"...Oh gosh I think I need to gag again.
After a week of gentle usage it gets easier on the nose. I agree with comments from other members about using it to layer and to beef up the more insipid juices but I absolutely can't see me wearing it alone or in any quantity. Ever.
I'm on a huge reading tip at the moment - books on old fashioned perfumes from the 17th century onwards and all this research points to skank; civet, musks, ambergris, cumin-y sweaty smells being used in much larger quantities than today. We adore the "clean" these days - our noses are shy and very polite.
Fleur Poudree de Musc is basically a masterclass in perfumes that history has not let us smell. It's a tour de force of quite frankly, pretty intimate levels of sex. It's definitely worth testing in relation to Secretions. I find it filthier and less plastic, and more challenging as a "real" perfume as it has huge sillage and staying power in comparison.
I can not imagine any large house releasing this now. We are in love with the ozonic and the gourmand - this is neither. I'm glad I own it. I'll keep discovering it. Testing it. I wonder if in a years time, as my nose learns and explores more, if I will barely notice the skank at all. If you'd like a sample, message me, I'm happy to share. :-)
NB: Ok. Hold the front page. All change! I freaking love this. In addition to using it to "beef up" less dense frags and soliflores, I'm now doing what I thought I'd never do and wearing it alone. Yes, it's filthy dirty, but it's also soft and close...and sexy. Warm, comforting and "lived in". Absolutely none of the vanilla I associate with this feeling. Still slightly "poo-ey" if I breath in too hard - but I've come round and I can totally see why someone bothered to put this in a bottle. My nose is learning...
25th February, 2015 (last edited: 06th July, 2015)
This is a top-loaded floral stinker somewhat akin to MKK but with an insanely scratchy, hive-inducing powder effect added. The musk is basically a wallop of civet paired with a rough-grained cedar-type note and some animalis type accords thrown in. I don’t find the musk to be nearly as lewd or suggestive (or good) as MKK as it comes off quite harsh to me. Then, after maybe 10 minutes or so, the powder kicks up in a huge way that’s more aggressive (and challenging) than the opening civet blast.
What’s a bummer about this one is that it goes from 60 to zero in mere minutes, becoming a demure powder with only a whisper of musk remaining. It appears at first to be a hardcore civet bomb over what smells like hot geranium, but what remains past the first 10 minutes feels more like a cedar-framed Victorian still-life in a room where at least 50 bottles of Johnson’s baby powder were just shaken into the air. Brutal, but not in a good way.
HOLY MOLY BATMAN!
If you ever thought you smelled musk in a western fragrance and you haven't tried Fleur Poudree De Musc, you're missing out. This makes all the other more popular *muscs* such as Muscs Koublai Khan, Kiehl's Musk, Musc Tonkin and the likes feel like little wusses. Mind me, I'm not saying this is necessarily better but surely more hardcore and more…fecal.
Yeah, at this point I think you got it. It's an extremely natural animalic musc with just a tiny tad of powdery-floral patterns. That's it. I'm still not sure what to make of this but I'm giving it a good rating because, boy if it leaves an impression.
…and it can be found for pretty cheap too but be warned, this is some truly challenging s**t.
I love this for layering. Some of the perfumes I loved in the past have lost their charm because of re formulations. A very small amount of Les Nereides followed by the perfume seems to power them up once again. Having said that, I would never wear it on its own, it's too one directional for that.
The name, the quaint bottle, the label (you really have to see the label.) It all tells you that this will be a powder-puff of a perfume designed for the sort of woman who tiptoes through her life as if La Sylphide and Giselle were living role models. The label even has a pair of symmetrical putti fluttering about carrying the name of the perfume on a banner you might find at the renaissance fair.
Don’t let the preciousness fool you, the topnotes make the opening of Luten’s Muscs Kublai Khan seem like a fresh rose on a pillow. Have you ever undressed somebody after a long day of winter sport, all those layers amplifying the scent of skin that’s sweated then dried multiple times? Remember that scent, then imagine some powder on top. That’s Fleur Poudrée.
Fleur Poudrée has all the sweet waxiness that the ‘skin musks’ have, but it also lays out a foul/powdery dichotomy that says proudly, “Embrace the unwholesomeness!” The flowers and musky berry-sweetness only serve to fill in the narrow middle between the boulder-like bookends of powder and funk.
Fleur Poudrée captures utterly what I love about musk-based perfumes. It tells you we’re animals and we in fact want to sniff each other. But it also tells you that much of what we learn from infancy onward, starting with ritual cleansings/circumcision/initiation ceremonies, is to keep others at arm’s length. The ‘personal space’ bit actually just means you stink and I stink and if human stink bothers you, you’ll never actually find a solution.
Fleur Poudrée exaggerates the carnal at the same time that it amplifies the classic defense against our own odor: powder. It’s the torrid disguised as the proper. Unless you’re in on the joke, Fleur Poudrée must be unsettling.
22nd May, 2012 (last edited: 28th June, 2012)
I have been hunting musk scents lately...it got me by the name!Yes,i bought blindly a 15 ml splash bottle and never regret it!Soft,powedery musk that it is not overpowered ...velvet and tender touch of musky accords melt with floral notes!It's definitely one good musky-poudree perfume , feminine and delicate!
I like it very much!