Reviews of Lux (2006)
by Mona di Orio

The rich, sweet citrus opening is lovely, but also rather "perfumey" in a familiar way that I can't quite place. Although there's no lavender note listed, I'm reminded of Jicky, minus the civet.

As the scent develops a distinct powdery note emerges to underpin the heart, which remains sweet and fruity, with an overlay of gentle wood notes. A very light and delicately balanced vanillic accord comes to the surface as time passes, integrating with the powdery note in a velvety, yet somehow very bright base.

Eventually the sweet fruit and vanilla drive Lux into a candy-like domain, without enough dry notes for my nose. The powdery vanilla and wood drydown seems a bit conventional after the rest of the trip, but it's certainly pretty and still very well-balanced. Not as daring or original as Nuit Noire, but a nice scent nonetheless. I think I'd like it better on a woman than on myself, by the way.

Lux was a brutal disappointment, as I was really expecting to like it (well, based on other reviews). The opening citrus notes were lovely but, about 10-20 minutes later, all I got was this vile wax accord that rapidly dominated the scent.

Maybe it's just my skin chemistry...

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

I've been obsessing about Lux since last night when I received my decant and immediately tried it on. After the surprisingly good opening, I even left alone the Muscs Koublai Khan that I received at the same time. I had envisioned that the two would layer well, with Lux being the topnote-heavy partner in the mixture and MKK providing the base. It turns out that this golden juice definitely needs no heavy artillery to hold its own on the battlefield.

You don't often experience a citrus this deep, sensual, and complex. The opening notes pierce right through you like sunlight through a vampire. After that comes a slight disappointment - a minor association to same bug spray aroma that exists in Zino Davidoff, YSL Rive Gauche and Musc Ravageur (although they could be different bug sprays, for all I know). We'll see how it develops from now on - I'm wearing this for work although it's not exactly a work fragrance, just out of curiosity. Will try and edit the experiences here as they come.

The basenotes were noticeable after the 5 and half hours of sleep that I got. But just that.

Beautiful citrus opening – rich, semi-sharp, full-bodied, lemony; I think the high quality comes from the use of bitter orange and Petitgrain; the lemon note is full, rich, and excellent and not at all “lemon drop” at this point. This is about as opulent of a citrus opening as I’ve experienced. In my mind, citrus doesn’t normally lend itself to opulence, but, in the case of Lux, “opulent” is the proper term. But my success with this fragrance ends with the opening. I find the movement from the citrus top to the wood middle is a bit clumsy: It spends too much time in that no man’s land between the diminishing of the citrus top and the recognition of the woody / powdery middle. The citrus handles its decrescendo properly (it never completely disappears through the run of the scent) but the woods don’t seem to know how to operate on my skin. The woods develop nicely on paper, but the quality doesn’t transfer when the fragrance hits my skin – I lose about everything except the remnants of the opening citrus. On paper, the beautiful amber / musk drydown is going strong twenty hours after application. On my skin I have never achieved a decent performance of the middle and base notes through seven wearings – the fragrance is gone in an hour. Mona di Orio Lux just doesn’t like me.

Lovely lemony-amber goodness, with a drydown that's all about the woods and the vanilla. (It reminds me very of Ungaro II w/o the civet. I can see the Jicky connection, too, albeit with the lavender and civet combo.)

Just got this one in the mail today and can already tell you that it's going to go into a permanent spot in my wardrobe.

Lux was the MdO scent I was least interested in but decided to give it a try anyway. The opening is pure lemon soap, quite lovely, but that stage soon passes giving way to powdery vanilla notes, which give way to something woody and slightly bitter (vetiver, I guess). Lux is interesting, and a quality scent, like all MdO scents, but... neither yay nor nay.

Lemon candy progressing into a stuffy boudoir.

This is one of the most surprising scents I've ever tried. It starts with a citrus overdose, fresh, bitter and sharp, reminding me of FM's Bigarade Concentree. But it doesn't vanish or get watery-airy like most citrus fragrances. It gets darker and deeper an develops to a full, rich ambery scent with some 'dirty' hints (musk and labdanum). The citrus accords stay perceivable all the time, also during the drydown, even if they retrench more and more into the background. A distinctive, extraordinary yet very versatile fragrance. Great!

Upon testing, Lux immediately jumped into my top 10 list. It is amazing. The development on my skin is one of the most dramatic I've experienced. It starts off incredibly sharp with a rush of bitter notes. The petitgrain is very pronounced in the topnotes. It takes well over an hour for these topnotes to mellow on me. I've not experienced longevity like this from topnotes in any other scent. As it dries, the amber takes center stage. This is a warm, rich, full and addictive amber. Not quite as "plump" as MPG's amber in Ambre Precieux, and not very sweet, but very good in its own way. The toned-down but still slightly bitter topnotes now act to buffer the slight sweetness of the amber, and the scent has a near perfect balance of sweetness and bitterness. As it reaches the basenotes, it picks up a complex powderiness. I don't mean to make this scent sound simple or streamlined, because I get the feeling it is complex, but the notes mix so well that the only ones I can pick out are petitgrain and amber, and that's only until it reaches the base, which to my nose smells like one whole note - powdery, warm, rich - glowing like a west coast sunset. Sillage is just right; enough that I can smell it, never so much as to be noxious. Longevity is astounding. The scent lasts well over a day on me. It actually was still present on my skin at the end of the next day, even more present than the Tabarome Millesime that I wore that day (on different spots of course). This is a must test, and bottle-worthy for me.

I just recieved a sample tube from Aedes today. Very silky smooth. To my nose the cedar and amber are dominant but the cedar is not harsh at all. It is very well blended even though it comes to the foreground with the amber. The vanilla is there too but seems to smooth everything else out rather than assault your senses as in some other compositions. I suppose some would consider this a winter fragarence but it was 75 degrees F today and it was very comforting to me. Not cloying at all.

This seems to be a complex fragarence but not overly burdened with extranious ingrediants just for the sake of being able to say it has " The Most". For me every note seems to click in place and was judiciously considered. Quite bottleable for me.

docpsycho