Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur is the classic ‘whole lotta everything’ perfume. It’s an Aromatic Fougiental with gourmand tendencies. It doesn’t blend categories. It lumps them all together in the same bottle. Keeping the different genres at arms length from each other is a remarkable technical accomplishment. Unfortunately, it also leaves Musc Ravageur open to love/hate criticism. Fougère fans will find too much sweetness. Those hoping for a warm amber will find the aromatic elements jarring. It’s not gourmand enough for others.
I don’t know if perfumer Maurice Roucel had plans to spin off a set of flankers by overdosing particular notes, but Musc Ravaguer is an ideal starting place. Helmut Lang Eau de Parfum glides past the aromatics and amps up the musk. Le Labo Labdanum 18 makes a marshmallow of a perfume by emphasizing vanilla and removing much of Musc Ravageur’s kitchen sink.
L de Lolita doesn’t so much overdose a particular note as accentuate the ties to the gourmand genre. The perfume makes its point with patchouli. The camphorous side of the material replicates the aromatic top of Musc Ravageur, but by skipping the lavender L de Lolita skirts fougère references. Patchouli’s chocolate side combines with a maple syrup note (immortelle) to create a dessert feel. Juxtaposing patchouli’s contrastingly cool and warm sides while adding skosh of cotton candy gives Lolita a passing resemblance to Thierry Mugler Angel. Angel’s trick, though, is its inherent dissonance. It suggests food and poison in the same sniff. Lolita is far less conflicted than Angel and lands squarely in the desert camp, ultimately smelling like a German Chocolate cupcake.
L de Lolita misses the point of Angel. Angel balances food and toxin in a 50-50 mix. It draws you close with cotton candy and then blasts you with camphor just as you get intimate. It’s a classic tease. L de Lolita distorts the ratio. 90% cupcake draws you in but the 10% poison isn’t enough to push you away. It’s classic nausea.
There is something technically fascinating yet conceptually crass about L de Lolita. For all the expertise that that may have gone into manipulating genres and layering notes just so, the experience it asks the wearer to have is trite. L de Lolita creeps too far into the laziness of the gourmand genre. The experience it offers is, “Hey. Wanna smell sort of like a cupcake?”
A fresh orange opening makes for a nice start, but soon the core notes of this creation comes to the fore: cinnamon, a light, not really distinctly sweet and of great lasting power. Yes, the drydown is a floral affair, and the added tonka impression is again more on the elegant side with a restrained sweetness. Yes, there is a woodsy base with a light white musk in the base. Nonetheless, cinnamon rules!
Sillage is moderate, the projection very good, and I get a splendid ten hours of longevity on my skin.
A great autumnal scent, not displaying disturbing levels of synthetic influence and well blended. A gourmand for those who find this type of fragrance usually too rich and too heavy. Wearable for work. 3.25/5.
25th November, 2015 (last edited: 15th December, 2015)
I'm gonna be honest, and admit that I purchased this for the bottle. I had no idea what to expect from it scent-wise.
Delightful - truly. The cinnamon was a surprise. For the first 15-20 minutes, I smell as though I walked into a bakery that just finished baking cinnamon bread.
The vanilla that comes thru is not too sweet, and is quite elegant - again, not something I expected.
The bottle is gorgeous, and truly misleading. This has nothing to do with aquatics, summer, sand, or anything you would envision with the likes of such a sculpture. While my brain suffers a bit with this juxtaposition, I do appreciate the comedy.
L de Lolita Lempicka is the first Kiss of a relationship that promises to be Breathtaking.One of those brilliant creations by LOLITA and Another Romantic and Elegant scent to add to the Collection. Evocative,Wonderful, Yummy,Bewitching,Addictive,Vanillic, Warm and Artistic.
This Great Oriental-Vanilla has top notes of Orange A heart of Cinnamon and a dry down of sheer Vanilla as it Gives you feel Cozy,Comfortable and Above All when you wear this EDP it makes you feel like you are a Angel.This scent is Irresistible for so many Men.This Gourmand Oriental is not as Heavy and Womanly as Angel.
It is a little too heavy for hot summer days but Great for a ROMANTIC EVENING in AUTUMN/WINTER weather.The bottle is as ADORABLE as The scent.It is not the perfume I like it because I Absolutely Love it.Anyway if you are looking for a Sophisticated Oriental-Vanilla not in a Cloying way you are exactly at the right place.
Longevity?Superb on my skin.
L is so pretty. It's sexy, salty, oceany, vanilla, cinnamon. Just perfect. I just wish it lasted longer on me.