Armani Privé Cuir Améthyste (2005)
by Giorgio Armani

Cuir indeed. It’s not the harsh, vintage leather jacket of Cuiron, or that English Leather note of JC’s Old English but the refined and subtle suede note of an expensive pair of gloves. Amethyste of course. No other scent has ever described so accurately the color of this gem. Impressive floral (rose) and spicy (coriander) opening. Warm and sweet heart with purple violets and a soft leather note from the birch, smoky but not offensive. Rich powdery base that stays close to the skin for long. Warm, sensual and mysterious but if you don’t like the violet note , don’t even try this.

Violets, suede, and leather. Its pretty feminine to me, I don't think I'd be comfortable wearing it. I'm fine with true unisex such as the CKs but this one crosses over. I think the name hits it right on, amythyst is a very appropriate stone/color to match this fragrance. It definately smells of a quality fragrance.

I found a bottle of this for insanely cheap compared to its retail value. It begins a bit jarring to me, but you instantly notice its leather notes. I can see the comparison to Daim Blond, and Mauboussin's Histoire d'Eau, but Cuir Amethyste is darker, more mysterious with a much more woodier facet. The violet is dangerously seductive, fearful and exciting at the same time. I find this scent more feminine in the beginning moving its way to more masculine nuances. Black is the perfect color for this scent.

I had this as a sample that I got back in Milan at a fashion show a few years ago. I remembered it being very unique and rather well made floral chypre/oriental that lasted forever. I seriously considered buying it several times, but, I was not willing to dish out the cash for it at the time. Now, jump forward a few years and across the pond. A friendly fellow Basenoter had it for sale for nearly nothing (comparatively speaking) and I snapped it up as soon as I noticed it. I don't regret it!! I am absolutely loving it. To my nose, it is very similar to Givenchy's Amarige Mariage (minus the Jasmine) and Dolce Vita by Dior (both of which I consider Unisex as well). However, CA possesses a deeper and darker patchouli note that is tons more distinct than either of the others, Furthermore, the cinnamon note present in the other two is replaced by a lovely birch note (which I think gives it more of a leather like effect, but nothing extreme). The rose in this one really stands out - very, VERY well done throughout the dry down.

5 stars.

Armani Prive' Cuir Amethyste

The Armani Prive line was an attempt by Armani to create their version of a niche line. The first two that I have tried of the Prives, Bois D'Encens and Vetiver Babylone have suceeded to my nose in achieving this goal. They were interesting if not terribly original scents which felt more niche than mainstream to me. I looked forward to trying Cuir Amethyste the 2006 release by Michel Almairac who did Bois D'Encens. This was billed as a violet and leather scent and it definitely lives up to it. Right from the top I get a beautiful full-on astringent violet and it is strong on me. If you do not like violet this will be too strong for you. I am a great lover of violet and so it is fine to my nose. A mix of patchouli and birch come into play as this progresses and it makes for a well-balanced and interesting heart. The base is where the leather comes in and this is a soft suede accord which is perfect to finish off the floral beginning. I have seen Cuir Amethyste compared to Serge Lutens Daim Blond and on my skin I don't agree. The violet comes off less sweet and more floral than the apricots in the beginning of Daim Blond. The final notes of suede are probably pretty close but the trip to that final accord is very different. Again I feel that Cuir Amethyste is a not terribly creative well-executed scent and if you like violet and leather it is worth a try.

Violet and leather really, really get to those who can't stand them. Here, it gets to me a little. But I can see the appeal. A nicely made leather scent that's sweet. And there's a rose note too. Rose and leather seem to be coupled like woods and amber or vanilla and lavender. The more I smell Cuir Amethyste, the more feminine it smells. It gets fruitier with age but stays with its main accords of violet and leather.