Escentric 01 (2006)
by Escentric Molecules

I finally summoned up enough courage to explore some of the Escentric Molecules scent collection. I start with 01 (Iso E Super):

A very flat, barely discernible synthetic solution that initially would trickle out a scintilla of the other listed fragrance notes: Pink pepper every ten seconds, iris at about the same rate, amalfi lemon as well, very subtle mastic resin (also havin a cedar / pine / olibanum aka frankincense character). The apparent quality of Iso E Super (C16H26O, chemically), the star of this olfactory presentation, is one of transparency, somewhat of ambergris, more so of cedar-like woodiness, subtly like vetiver and patchouli, and - in my own perceptions - like smooth cashmeran. Over time, it seems to "wake up" and get ever so louder, allowing me to catch the listed notes better (though sillage is still skin scent and below for me).

Well, I don't know what to make of this. It feels like a science experiment interacting with my skin and begging me to take notes for analysis and theorizing, rather than a fragrance I'd bona fide wish to apply and experience per se. It's not "bad", it's just, well, "meh" and "what the ?!" for me, personally. I want it to do and "say" more, but...maybe it's not meant to.

I won't knock the intention of Escentric Molecules for this or other concoctions of theirs which I do not understand nor appreciate just yet. I have seen how I have grown to like particular fragrances recently that I'd swear off 10 years ago. The same may be the case for EM01 - Iso E Super. And I'll credit them with attempting to open the horizon of understanding for the world of olfactory chemicals to people like me who genuinely am in awe of and respect the science and craft.

So for now, EM01 gets a "huh?" neutral rating from me...

I will post this under every EM product, so if you've seen this before stop reading but at least one time note the following: you should buy every Molecule 0X and Escentric 0X and I will tell you why.

The reason (I have found and the usual miles may differ) is that this series is an education in fragrance. Each archetypal component molecule is examined -- start from the Escentric 0 to the X, then go to the equivalent Molecule. You will soon discern the influence of major scent famiies like Sandalwood, Vetiver, Ambroxan, and ISO E Super. You will thereafter learn these very popular notes in other compositions. Graduate-level education in fragrance. You will also learn how these major chemicals interact with your personal skin chemistry.

Do all eight for a true Rosetta Stone of the universe of fragrance, but at least a pair or two, whatever interests you.

This has been around for a long time. Who knows why? I sprayed a good amount on and got...NOTHING. Where was it? All these imaginary notes. There's simply not an iota of truth to any of it. If you want woods get 'Heeley Cardinal'. 'Escentric One' is a dud.

This should have been a winner for me; the synthetic pepper of Iso E Super is what I came for (big fan of Bang) and I like modern, linear, challenging scents.

Still, I wanted a *little* more complexity than simply ordering Molecule 01, so hoped this would be the perfect middle ground.

I tested via an amateur sample seller online and I suppose it is possible he/she waters it down, but I can barely detect anything at first spray! As it dries, that synthetic pepper comes through, but really nothing else, and even then not as powerfully as it should, given its USP.

I'll keep the 10ml tester to add an Iso E Super kick to other more complex fragrances that I want to pep up, but won't be wearing it on its own, and won't buy it again.

Absolutely plain and linear. Iso super E is the most 1 dimensional fragrance. It may be a good base, but almost by itself it smells ordinary and artificial.