The Emperor's New Clothes...
Molecule 01 is an interesting one, on so many levels. The fact that this is only one note throughout is quite a slap in the face to modern perfumery, to an extent that this exposes one of the perfumers little secrets and makes it the star of the show.
Iso-E-Super is not a one-dimensional note. It fact it changes ans morphs over time. It has facets of cedarwood, sandalwood and even hints of pepper. I do like it, but I don't find it groundbreaking.
I think this summarises the case of "Emperors New Clothes Syndrome". In the sense that this fragrance is more important in how it makes people feel than how it makes others feel. If you know that the fragrance you are wearing makes you feel good about yourself, you will get compliments. End of story. With this fragrance, I feel that this is part of the appeal.
For me, ultimately I did not receive compliments even after a few days use. I do appreciate it very much, but that's where it ends for me. As a side note, you can buy Iso-E-Super direct and still have your magic ingredient (without the packaging and "concept art"). Not a bad fragrance by any means, but you need to play around with it a little to get results.
Ick! 100% ISO E Super. For some reason, I recoil from ISO E Super like it's garlic, sorry.
Being number 13 in a series of 16 reviews on critically acclaimed and noteworthy scents.
The reviews of Molecule 01 make interesting reading before cracking out the sample. What exactly should one expect? Read on for real events.
So, I couldn't smell anything. I mean, not a thing. I know this is not that unusual, but the lack of any scent at all is so noteworthy that it kept me in a state of surprise all day. As it happens, both Mrs Funwithfrags and Master Funwithfrags, both with rather younger nasal passages than I, could not only detect it, but really liked it. As I had to rely on their descriptions for a change, here they are: some citrus up top, with some woods and spices, possibly cinnamon, in the background. To reiterate, this was a definite thumbs-up for them.
Although I could detect nothing over the course of a whole day, various descriptors kept occurring to me, no doubt on a mostly subconscious level. The woods I think were there, ranging from pencil shavings to oud; possibly some citrus. I did the fairly frequent chemical effect of the iso-e, which was mostly a not-so-pleasant and obviously artificial effect, somewhat too polished and even heavy.
So that's it, right? case closed? Wrong! So many people have suggested a layering function for M01, saying that it improves the other scent. On this basis, I was careful to give it another chance. I thought I should give it the best shot and chose the companion scent carefully, finally settling on Bulgari Pour Homme Extreme, for its general transparency, clear accords, naturalness, and possibility of benefitting from a stiffer base, as well as my familiarity with it.
This time, with the Bulgari as a vehicle, I did detect something, and the iso-e came through loud and clear. I would say there was a distinct ramping up in
performance. However, I can't say that M01 improved my Bulgari experience at all, removing the lightness and understated nature of that scent.
So all in all, a worthwhile experience, but not something I would buy as a scent. Let others who can detect it have their say.
Unimpressive venture into pure minimalism. Sharp, medicinal, smells like weak disinfectant. Perhaps if I am charitable I can imagine a slight smoky note in the dry-down.
Grape flavour cordial sold as fine wine, at fine wine prices.