Umè (2006)
by Keiko Mecheri

On my first trial on test paper, the opening gave me a beautiful, elegant broad-spectrumed osmanthus / bergamot accord supported by a fruit note (peach?… apricot?) and the merest touch of resinous wood and a suggestion of citrus. It did seem almost a classic Chanel except that it is a bit too fruity… I have never been able to replicate that first paper test… From that time on, I get FRUIT.

The first time I tested Umé on my skin, I got loads of wood accord coupled to an excellent floral combination. I loved it! Subsequent tests have brought fruit… LOADS of fruit: Apricot… peach… persimmon… whatever. Unfortunately, I very quickly lost the floral and wood notes while the fruit notes rose to dominance. And dominance is where the fruit notes stay… test after test after test… peach or apricot. After a couple of hours, I do get the wood accord of the base coming through but it is mainly a very softened Hiniki and moss, and there might be a hint of persimmon in there. The base sends out little sillage but is a lovely skin scent.

I would have loved the first version I got of either the paper or the skin test, but since the first trial of each, all I get is fruit. This subsequent fruitiness quietly emanates off my skin and leaves me totally uninterested.

16th July, 2010.

I second the Christmas theme here, I can't pinpoint it, but every year my Mom puts out this vine-type runner around the living room and it smells just like this. Or at least something she's putting up in the living room smells like this scent.

I got a sample of this becuase it is in the same category as Mitsouko, and I was interested to see how the plum note came across. This isn't on the same level as Mitsouko (but what is, really) Nevertheless, this is a nice, well rounded fragrance that lasts in the medium range.

**UPDATE** I pulled my sample back out now that the weather is cooling off. And I must say I'm liking this so, so much more now.This one really snaps, there is a wonderful spicy note that comes across, and it is quite sophisticated. Love it

27th February, 2010.

My favorite of the Keiko Mecheri's I've sampled. All KM's seem formulated not to offend, to the point of being bland (Hanae) or stuffy (Grenats). Ume narrowly avoids a similar fate by adding a delicate salt-and-smoke edge to the fruity heart notes that is enough to keep you interested over the course of it's relatively short lifespan. I totally get the Coco Mademoiselle comparison. Both are chypre-lites with a bergomat/jasmine/woody accord. Prada Tendre is even more of a lookalike, being all of the above, but with plum instead of apricot. In fact, if you like this kind of thing, Prada Tendre is half the price and worth a try.

4th September, 2009. (Last Edited: 22nd September, 2009.)

A really lovely fragrance that opens with strawberries and lemon -- it can jolt you a bit at first. This is then enhanced by what was suggested as lychees, but turns out to be a gorgeous, lush plum rendition. It then stays linear with the above notes for it's duration (it musks out slightly), which is a long,long time. It all sounds rather feminine, but surprisingly isn't -- the notes mix wonderfully and Ume doesn't turn powdery at all, so I wear it happily. The sillage is really good, unlike Bois de Santal, where it is quite minimalist. I shall be trying more from this House, especially the peach rendition for the summer. I haven't smelt anything quite like this before and Ume goes straight into rotation. This fragrance needs to be experienced by everyone.

3rd March, 2009.

The notes and the fragrance (to me) seem not to match; this made me feel as if someone had cut out a segment of Coco Chanel and transplanted it over a different base. Extremely pretty and wearable.

12nd January, 2009.

A woody floral that's really, really good. I like the tuberose-like accord that's possibly the combination of several fruit notes. A rich, warm, musky drydown. Men, wear this with confidence.

31st October, 2008.