A bit of a disappointment from the note pyramid and reviews I read. This opens with a blast of very dry powdered artificial orange drink mix from the Petitgrain. Coriander makes an appearance and as it dries down it takes on a vanilla and dry powder vibe that is very close to natural Ambergris. Ambergris is usually used as a fixative- trouble is it's not fixing anything here. Not a scrubber, but something is off-putting for me.
Not feeling this one at all, and so glad I didn't blind buy a whole bottle. Got a sample with my purchase from Luckyscent. .7 ml was enough to test this on 3 separate occasions for me, and all 3 times were failures.
The first time I wore this I was actually repulsed. It smelled animallic, metallic, and like a dirty leather that somebody took a dump on.. honestly. The second and third time, I got the same thing, but with more development. Undoubtedly a leather dominant fragrance to me, although no list of that in the notes. This reminds me of this old orangish leather wallet my Grandpa gave me when I was about 5..you opened it up, and it reeked of a sour leather smell.
Fortunately, the dry down in this is much nicer than the opening. It sweetens up.. I definitely get the ambergris, which is a note I feel is sort of a shapeshifter or in our world, a smellshifter. I have smelled pure ambergris (possibly treated), in a perfume lab, and it has this sweet ambery quality to it.. no different than what I smell in the dry down here. Back to the "smellshifter" figure of speech, I feel that the ambergris in the base here takes on the leather, and base notes well, prolonging its longevity too.
L'Air du Desert Marocain is a bit of a disappointment, while being really quite lovely. On the one hand: it is indisputably an elegant, subtle composition, a deft work of olfactory art. On the other: for me at least, the individual notes never quite merge into a cohesive whole; it's almost too protean over the long haul to be wearable or truly interesting. On application, the notes are a clanging masculine shout full of spices, nothing special or distinct, but somehow promising. This initial blast settles quickly, and it becomes a (thankfully) mellower blend of spices and woods against a sweet resinous amber, with just a dash of a subtle and pleasant floral note. True to its name, the scent is somehow very dry. It smells to me like something a djinn would wear -- so also true to its name. But the scent continues to change, with different notes coming to the forefront and receding, rather than blending into something harmonious. At one point, I swear it smells like carpentry, all raw wood, metal, and oil. Yes: on me, it takes a turn as l'Air du Woodshop. Not only does it not seem to blend into a coherent composition, it doesn't blend at all with me. I'm not wearing it; it's hovering over and around me. Wearing l'Air du Desert Marocain is like going on a date with a wonderfully attractive, charming, witty person who really isn't interested in me. It is too polite to not be charming and witty, but is not really engaged in the conversation. L'Air du Desert Marocain is brilliant, beautifully composed, and interesting, but I have no chemistry with it. As a quibble, I have a lot of scent memories attached to North Africa, and the notes of this honestly don't connect with me and make me think "North Africa." Of course, that may be a highly personal evocation, but that failure to connect emotionally with my memories and expectations might be part of why it leaves me a bit less than enthusiastic. On someone else, I might truly appreciate this.
22nd April, 2016 (last edited: 23rd April, 2016)
The spicy/fresh/sweet mix might be the best way to describe Tauer's L'Air du Desert Marocain, a crowd favorite otherwise classified as a woody aromatic. Certainly the woody base is there, topped off by some coriander and cumin to give it some vegetable-ish sharpness/spiciness. The sweetness allegedly comes from the amber per the notes breakdown but it almost strikes me as something different.
To its credit, I can't really compare LADDM to anything else off the top of my head. The fresh spicy aspect of it likens it to Calvin Klein Euphoria Intense, or perhaps another Euphoria flanker, and the sweetness almost makes it lean gourmandly toward Dior Feve Delicieuse, though fans of the latter would surely point of the differences. Still, it at least comes to mind.
It's a good performer, strong in terms of both projection (especially the first hour) and longevity. Redolessence wisely advises that while this can be dressed up, it's not terribly versatile, nor for warmer weather.
Agreeable but not an all-time great to me as it is to many, I probably wouldn't buy a bottle but it's an interesting try.
6 out of 10
The opening is promising but within 20 minutes it transitioned into a steady accord that is not quite right for me.