Black Aoud (2006)
by Montale

Savage splendor – that’s Black Aoud: an uncompromisingly dark and woody rose scent that makes hash of the notion that roses are for old ladies and potpourri. In my earlier, unenthusiastic review of Black Aoud I wrote that I was disappointed with the scent because it was linear and had a simple structure. That conclusion, it turns out, was based on two mistaken premises.

First, I have learned over time that simple does not mean “inferior.” In fact some of the greatest modern fragrances I know have simple structures: En Passant, Parfum d’Habit, and Homage come immediately to mind. So even if Black Aoud is simple, its pungent oudh, exquisitely rendered rose, and robust leather and patchouli foundation make for an outstanding combination. Indeed, Black Aoud’s distinctive and appealingly barbaric impact would be ill served by too much nuance or complexity.

My second complaint, that Black Aoud did not develop, was simply unfounded. Black Aoud does indeed develop, and in interesting ways. The trick is that it takes up to twelve hours for the development to commence! Given Black Aoud’s twenty-four hours plus longevity this ought not be all that surprising. When Black Aoud finally does start to evolve the rose note recedes to reveal more of the leather, which in turn takes on a warm, animalic edge. At the same time a rich, creamy sandalwood note emerges from the depths. The wood and leather notes are seasoned by patchouli, and then sweetened ever so slightly by a hint of labdanum.

As I’ve implied above, Black Aoud is an extraordinarily tenacious scent. In fact it’s one of the longest-lasting scents I know. It’s also extremely potent and leaves a great deal of sillage, so I advise applying it sparingly.

With regards to all those comparisons to No. 88, by Czech & Speake, these two fragrances are completely different beasts. While No. 88 is an old-fashioned and gentlemanly rose scent, Black Aoud is a ‘take no prisoners’ rose and aoud combo that smells both contemporary and timeless at the same time. Black Aoud also possesses far better longevity and sillage than No. 88 (which disappointed me greatly in these departments). Both are scents of great quality but they are definitely not similar to each other.

However, for those who are not used to wearing oud may, initially, have a shock (and some may not even ‘get it’). For those who find themselves in this situation, it’d be best to test Black Aoud at least half a dozen times before coming to any firm conclusion. The difference between Western and Middle Eastern perfumery is immense and, therefore, one should allow adequate time for olfactory re-conditioning – the potential reward for such perseverance is definitely worthwhile.

Although Black Aoud is an oddity, among the Western perfumes in my wardrobe, I dearly cherish its unrivalled quality and uniqueness.

A classic.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

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Black Oudh: one of the most intense, at the same time, refined opening ever! a refined note of Oudh with a sharp accord of rose..a rose so beautiful it'll have you enchanted. infact, this is why Black Oudh is one of the best offering from Montale. let an hour pass by and notice how th acords gets smoother..creamier and of deep red. it the delightful blend on rose, oudh and saffron..an equation so balance, it feels like a perfectly tuned guitar..harmonius....it's after couple of hours that BA reveals its true character and makes the entire journey quite interesting. it is here where the heavy dose of patchouli casts its magical spell of earthiness along with the oudh and sumptous rose..the combination of patchouli, oudh and rose with leather notes cast a spell, so comforting, warm, earthy and woody...that it acheives an unbelivable depth and tone to the whole journey. lovely stuff.
I would be surprised if anyone took to liking for this one immediately. i know i didnt, but this one showed it character in full wear. this ones called the king for a reason. it's sillage will have you fall to your knees...too good a frag to be missed. just be prepared for the intial hour or so...it's a kind which will grow on you..make you come back for more.

In a nutshell, Black Aoud is a lush bouquet of dark, moist roses over a base of Cambodian aoud (which smells like something along the lines of medicinal, animalic sandalwood) and patchouli.

Overall, Black Aoud (BA) has a very strong character, and gives off a vibe that is both romantic and mysterious. While it’s a little too strong for my liking, many will rejoice in its concentration and longevity/tenacity (it'll last on clothes for 48 hours +). Very unique and sensual. My favorite of the 6 or 7 Montale's I've tried, however I prefer to wear Montale's Attar, as it doesn't scream so much for attention. Unfortunately, the only time I can see myself wearing this is on an excursion through the Sahara desert or walking the streets of Hindu Kush, surrounded by potent spices and flowers - BA is just too strong for me to pull off comfortably here in the West.

If you like Dark Rose by Czech and Speake, you'll love this, as it's a kissing cousin of the former, but with much better quality ingredients.

8.5/10

Black Aoud is certainly a "try-before-you-buy" scent (though, that really applies to all fragrances). The oud-rose combination just comes across as too harsh and medicinal for me to enjoy. It doesn't seem to develop much, either. However, the sillage and lasting power of this are superb, so if you are a fan, you should be able to get a lot of mileage out of a bottle. I'm glad I tried Black Aoud, but I don't like it.