The opening conjures up a coniferous image with herbal undertones - delightful. The drydown in one of the best wax-honey impression I have come across for a while, a rich Manuka - like flavour and exceedingly well done. The piece de resistance is the base, where the resinous beeswax merges into a more traditional beautiful velvety amber. A soft patchouli with spicy hints of oak moss and a balancing tonka; never really sweet and never cloying.
Great quality of the ingredients; well-blended and maintaining great structure and superb development on my skin. I get moderate sillage, very good projection and we've hours of longevity.
A great masterful composition. 4.5/5
Chypre Rouge manages to avoid the fruit syrup overdose that ruins so many Sheldrake-Lutens fragrances for me, favoring woods and moss instead. Along with Gris Clair and Sa Majesté la Rose, this is one of the few outings in which Sheldrake and Lutens do not overindulge their shared taste for dessert, and it works for the better!
That said, I'm a little bit puzzled by the controversy over Chypre Rouge. It strikes me as one of the more wearable fragrances from this house, but it hardly excites me, for better or for worse. In fact, in a line that either provokes or fascinates me, Chypre Rouge is simply forgettable.
What a trip this was! Although it turned out not to be for my skin, the first few minutes were well worth the trip! I felt as a fairy walking in the woods, at dusk. It started with a bit of harsh celery stalk, but diffused into this symphony of dried leaves and needles, slowly adrift in a shell of vanilla and patchouli sweetness. And aboard this trip, the vague red fruits, not quite ripe, and certainly not sweet, tantalizing our voyage.
I did not get the fruit gum scent talked about. Neither the fresh pine.
i get a lot of pine fresh pine sap, along with some summer berries, but very dry, almost singeing the nose at first. the immortelle is there but it's quite meek, no easy feat for such an assertive note. it projects a certain slow-burn heat, like a well-stained mahogany dresser in the strong sunlight. there's no curry spice rack evident but maybe a touch of anise and later, a firm mossy structure (hence the name, i suppose). this is quite exotic and though i've been wearing it for years, always surprises me with its strange vibe. classic serge aesthetic
l get that dry, sweet-spicy note of immortelle in the opening, with hints of resin & honey rather than maple syrup. There's a little smoke, & then a suggestion of dried, red berries or red wine to my nose, rather than the much-mentioned jello/fruit gum accord. One hour in, a mossy note begins to come forward, & deep in the base, a touch of vanilla. The projection is low, & it all fades out after around five hours.
l don't think this one is as terrible as many of the reviews seem to suggest, but then again, it didn't really move me, either.