Overwhelmingly immortelle infused, sweet gourmand concoction. Odd that the note tree does not include the most prominent note, but I find that often in these review pages.
Chypre Rouge brings to mind butter and maple syrup just poured over morning waffles. The bitter thyme and pine were brief and continued to lurk in the background. It settles down on my skin quite quickly and is then just linear immortelle.
Turin didn't like it, giving it two stars and dubbing it "immortelle disaster." Well, it boils down to whether or not you like the smell of immortelle, which is identical to fenugreek, prominent in Indian spice combinations. Once you include it, it overwhelms the other notes, so if it is present at all, it is sure to dominate.
There seem to be loads of immortelle fragrances out there, beginning with Sables and Eau Noire through Parfums d'Empire's Fougere Bengale and even Lutens' own mis-named Santal de Mysore. This is no better nor worse than any of the others. A decent take on the spice, perhaps more expensive than it needs to be.
Another pointless powderhouse exercise from the House of Lutens. On the feminine side
The opening conjures up a coniferous image with herbal undertones - delightful. The drydown in one of the best wax-honey impression I have come across for a while, a rich Manuka - like flavour and exceedingly well done. The piece de resistance is the base, where the resinous beeswax merges into a more traditional beautiful velvety amber. A soft patchouli with spicy hints of oak moss and a balancing tonka; never really sweet and never cloying.
Great quality of the ingredients; well-blended and maintaining great structure and superb development on my skin. I get moderate sillage, very good projection and we've hours of longevity.
A great masterful composition. 4.5/5
Chypre Rouge manages to avoid the fruit syrup overdose that ruins so many Sheldrake-Lutens fragrances for me, favoring woods and moss instead. Along with Gris Clair and Sa Majesté la Rose, this is one of the few outings in which Sheldrake and Lutens do not overindulge their shared taste for dessert, and it works for the better!
That said, I'm a little bit puzzled by the controversy over Chypre Rouge. It strikes me as one of the more wearable fragrances from this house, but it hardly excites me, for better or for worse. In fact, in a line that either provokes or fascinates me, Chypre Rouge is simply forgettable.
What a trip this was! Although it turned out not to be for my skin, the first few minutes were well worth the trip! I felt as a fairy walking in the woods, at dusk. It started with a bit of harsh celery stalk, but diffused into this symphony of dried leaves and needles, slowly adrift in a shell of vanilla and patchouli sweetness. And aboard this trip, the vague red fruits, not quite ripe, and certainly not sweet, tantalizing our voyage.
I did not get the fruit gum scent talked about. Neither the fresh pine.
i get a lot of pine fresh pine sap, along with some summer berries, but very dry, almost singeing the nose at first. the immortelle is there but it's quite meek, no easy feat for such an assertive note. it projects a certain slow-burn heat, like a well-stained mahogany dresser in the strong sunlight. there's no curry spice rack evident but maybe a touch of anise and later, a firm mossy structure (hence the name, i suppose). this is quite exotic and though i've been wearing it for years, always surprises me with its strange vibe. classic serge aesthetic