A ripe to bursting patchouli, a study in brown, black and purple. Inflections of almonds, damp earth, chamomile, and mould within its odour profile providing a substantial and grown-up experience without the headbanging volume. There even seem to be white flowers in the background done in the grape soda Poison manner. A bit like the friendlier sister of Goutal’s Mon Parfum Cheri which, depending on your taste, could be either a positive or a negative – I personally prefer MPC’s high seriousness.
Perfumes that are so full spectrum and ‘dark’ invite reflections on the nearness of fecundity to decay. Except that this one has diffusive musks to let in some air and light, and keeps patchouli’s often notorious sillage at an acceptable level. Until, that is, one reaches the deep drydown a couple of hours in, when the acceptable drops to the just perceptible, and the remaining impression is chiefly of old lipstick.
The notorious Intrigant Patchouli from the respectful Parfumerie Generale is an amazing honeyed-spicy patchouli ideally smelling like a blend of the spicy Coze 02 from the same brand, some "vintage/petroleous/waxy/rosey take on patchouli from Histoires de Parfums (vaguely Rosam), hand made honeyed british soaps and the venerable woody-oriental Patchouli from Molinard. The waxy/soapy/honeyed (old school chypre in style) vibe is dominant with its exotic floral spiciness (vaguely a la Patchouly Noir by Il Profvmo) while the yet present earthiness is soom soothed and musky-oriental in perception. This is an extremely elegant and distinguished fragrance with an aristocratic twist on my skin (yes dusty, freshly incensey/aldehydic, earthy, potpourri, aromatic, mellifluous yet not overly sweet). The honeyed-soapy feel makes this juice original if not yet one of a kind. I get a sort of fresh lavender's (slightly icy-aldehydic and fougere in style a la Ysl Kouros) presence enhancing the classic and slighly minty-detergent-balmy temperament. This feel makes this juice surprisingly versatile and dynamic (also for everyday use despite you could proudly wear it in the most aristocratic of the british castles). Honey, white flower's nectar, probably rose, amber-honey and ghostly liturgical resins enhance the courtier vibe (a la Etro Patchouly, especially in its smootherdry down) of this nostalgic take on Victorian atmosphere. A touch of moldy-camphoraceous feel closes the round of a really remarkable fragrance which I recommend to all the lovers of patchouli (and not) with any hesitation.
P.S: along dry down saldalwood and may be a touch of salty vetiver/tobacco/amber are more evident making the aroma more intense, "like old/dusty books smelling" and kind of virile/animalic.
Intrigant Pachouli is a nice “dark” and mellow patchouli scent with a peculiar sort of “powdery dead flowers” feel all over, a vibrant romantic mood with a slight stale aftertaste – like a dusty, old pot-pourri of dry flowers. Actually there is no flowers apparently, but the feeling of a “ghost of a chypre” is quite there in my opinion, I guess due to musks and benzoin. On the base I even smell something similar to ambergris – that same salty-rooty-mineral organic note. The addition of ginger provides a nice touch of spicy sweetness, which blends perfectly with amber to “warm” up the scent. I don’t find this that “intrigant” to be honest, rather – and pleasantly – gloomy and nostalgic, with a palpable melancholic and neoclassic refinement. A sophisticated and clever harmony played around patchouli, dark yet sweet and cozy, an elegant souvenir of a powdery-earthy chypre – like smelling your old aunt’s scarf. As other reviewers already noticed, it surely has a nice “vintage” feel, yet not smelling like a plain ripoff of an older scent. Not a masterpiece, but really pleasant, clever and creative.
I am not really a patchouli lover since it can come across as too blunt or rough. But this is my favourite patchouli fragrance. It is rather soft smelling, elegant and well blended and balanced with florals to create a sophisticated fragrance.
Long lasting on my skin and with a good projection. Completely unisex.
I have been marching through patchouli scents as of late, and I must say this one stands out nicely! This fragrance is rich and heady. Somewhat sweet, but a powdery-like quality tones it down. It is classy, yet ever so often I get a faint wiff of head shop that grounds it. After a loud, announcing opening, it settles in to a rich, spicy, vanilla scent that surrounds you like a velvet blanket! An easy two thumbs up, and a must purchase for certain!