On my skin this is first of all a tobacco fragrance. The tobacco leaves are wet and fresh and pleasant smelling. Other notes include patchouli and spices to add complexity. It is one of the most pleasant tobacco fragrances I have tried. Long lasting.
Coze smells like someone picked up the nicest smelling things in the world – coffee, pepper, dark chocolate, hash resin, patchouli – and shoved them into a perfume. Well, that’s not entirely true, because that implies that this perfume was a happy accident, whereas, in truth, Coze is a great example of a perfume that pulls off a complicated balancing act without alerting the wearer to the nuts and bolts of its underpinnings. In other words, it’s a smart, quasi-gourmand whose genius occurs to you when you choose to look at it closely.
For something that references both hash and the stuff we eat when we get the munchies, this is as far away from the druggy atmosphere of a teenage boy’s bedroom as can be. I think that’s because the hash note has been cleverly married to a host of green, herbal, and woody elements, thus yanking the whole thing outdoors. Whenever I wear this, I feel like I am in the company of friendly lumberjacks, sitting down in a forest opening to coffee, brownies, and a “funny” cigarette or two after a morning of cutting down trees. It is the type of perfume that makes you feel happy in an uncomplicated way.
The opening is rather dry and dark – a brief boozy moment is followed by ashy tobacco and a “brown” dust that can only be dark cocoa powder. It is delicious and also slightly spicy. I can smell hot pepper and maybe woody, dusty cloves. I like the way that this dark, dusty layer is fitted closely over a sticky green hemp base, and then finally set to smolder and smoke on a base of mahogany wood chips. It provides a perfect balance between edible and inedible, dry and balmy, and smoke and cold, clean air. Technically, it’s probably correct to call Coze a gourmand or quasi-gourmand, but its genius lies in dotting the foody notes so evenly around a dark, woodsy, smoky base that it would never occur to anyone to call it “yummy”.
I’ve heard tell that Pierre Guillaume composed Coze when he was just twenty-five, which might give any sane person reason enough to hate him, even if he weren’t so jaw-droppingly beautiful. But how can I hate someone who gave the world Coze? Or someone who apparently has sprayed Coze onto his skin during exhibitions and licked himself to demonstrate how natural and harmless his perfumes are when ingested? I too have licked my wrist while wearing Coze and I can confirm that no harm came to me. (I cannot say the same for Montale’s Chocolate Greedy, which gave me a third-degree burn on my lip when I tried the same thing). Lovely stuff all round.
On my skin, up top I definitely got the hemp with a dash of pepper, but not overwhelming to my nose (but my sample was not a spray so I had to dab, which tends to make a difference to my skin on how a fragrance presents). About midway I could pick up the patchouli and was thrilled (one of my fave scents), intermixed with coffee and chocolate. Never detected the tobacco until drydown, and then almost an ashtray tobacco scent (but not in an unpleasant way). Honestly don’t know what Ebony wood is supposed to smell like, but I detect something woody at the base so presume that’s it. At the finish, patchouli, vanilla and sweet tobacco were the strongest on my skin.
On me this was not heavy but again I had to dab instead of spray which makes a difference for me. This had fairly soft sillage for me but I used only a small amount, and if I were actually using this from a bottle I’d definitely use more and probably get better projection from it. On my skin everything seemed to settle in after about an hour, and this lasted on me for about 4 – 5 hours before becoming a faint skin scent.
I definitely see this as a cool weather scent and would not wear in spring or summer heat, but I find it unoffensive enough that I’d wear it to the office. I also can see this being a nice fragrance for either day or evening wear. Unlike other reviewers, I never picked up that clove note even though I was intentionally looking for it (and I actually like clove). On me, the patchouli and vanilla with notes of tobacco and wood dominate, and if there are any cloves in there they are buried deep! Right now I’m riding between liking it and loving it, and will try it a few more times to see if I get nudged in one direction or the other.
I know this is a unisex scent, but to my nose this comes across as quite a sweet scent and on my skin definitely falls on the feminine side. I’m not sure some men would feel comfortable wearing this, while others would. Although, having said that, this PG02 Coze is intoxicating enough that the juxtaposition between this sweet fragrance on a macho guy wearing this rising up from his chest could be an alluring combination!
As always, your results may vary!
23rd December, 2014 (last edited: 26th December, 2014)
This is one of those fragrances that could prove perfumery is art, not just combining a couple of notes!
The opening is a great and very well balanced combination of lots of notes that blended together with the exact right dose and completely masterfully.
Even though the patchouli note is in the base of the fragrance, you can smell it right after spraying it on and it takes and holds the bridle of the scent all the way through. the patchouli here is pungent, green, damp and slightly earthy. there is a strong yet smooth amount of natural tree resins smell right beside the patchouli note that gives the scent dirty, slightly woody and kind of oily feeling. have you ever seen and smelled the tears of the pine tree as a yellow resins on the body of the tree?! that type of feel and smell.
There is also some tobacco note with it's bitter herbal, slightly smoky and very elegant feeling that remind me of those expensive pipe tobaccos that only someone like legendary Sherlock Holmes would use.
I can smell some sweetness in the background and also small dose of chocolate and coffee beside all these notes which they are sensual part of the scent! they give the bitter herbal, resinous, woody and slightly smoky feeling of the scent a very nice kick to tune down the bitterness and balance all the notes perfectly.
As time passes the scent is not going to change that much. it gets only slightly more woody and a little peppery that makes the scent heavier and a little darker. this description of the scent may look very brutal and heavy but this is the part that I was talking about. all these heavy, masculine and brutal notes blended together in a completely wearable and kind of smooth way that make this fragrance a great choice for fall and cool spring days.
Projection is above average and longevity is variable between 6-8 hours on the skin. a great and easy to wear fragrance.
Genre: Woody Oriental
Coze opens up all cozy: warm, dark, fuzzy stuff that you can snuggle up against. It's not overly sweet, and it contains some smooth, well rendered wood notes that are really quite attractive. From the first I smell some smoke in the distance, and in very little time this smoke moves forward to dominate the scent. The rich, mysterious, and shadowy woods meanwhile jostle among themselves in the background. The accord that results smells like a dark oak panelled room with velvet upholstered furniture and some logs smoldering in the fireplace.
The gourmand notes listed in the pyramid don't make much of an impression on me, which is all for the better as far as I'm concerned. When compared to a couple of other smoky scents, Coze lacks the depth and complexity of Fumerie Turque, but it's far easier to wear than the ashtray and burnt coffee grounds concoction that is Maître Parfumeur et Gantier's Eau des Îles. It dries down to dark, spicy, mildly sweetened woods with some lingering smoke, and while it doesn't excite me much, I do think it's a pleasant scent for a damp winter's evening.
11th June, 2014 (last edited: 12th June, 2014)
The opening is really nice and recognisable, a pleasant and dusty cigarette/ashtray smell with a green/earthy twist of patchouli and vetiver and, I guess, tobacco leaves, cumin, perhaps saffron, pepper, frankincense, ambroxan and some subtle and soft leather-animalic notes, all gently sweetened by a base of vanilla and aromatic woods (I bet cashmeran, with its signature "silky-woody-aromatic-soft vip lounge cozyness"). After a while this comes slightly closer to Knize Ten, although more like a kid dressed like Batman taking a picture with Adam West on set; same tobacco-leather earthy and dusty concept, just more linear, transparent, contemporary (i.e.: duller). I also detect some nice liquorice/coffee notes which enrich and "round" the blend. Then again the initial cigarette feel tones down and gets sweeter and softer, gently turning into a green-ambery old leather fougère feel, so basically still that same Knize Ten realm, just more sweet and "contemporary". Finally the drydown (quite light and short-lasting) gets a silky patchouli-incense feel, less leathery than before, still pleasant and unoffensive. Must say that it's a nice scent overall, it sounds a bit "empty" and synthetic to many extents, but it basically smells like a modern, fresher and more appealing (to a broader audience, I mean) version of an old fougère, which I am given to understand many silly young perfumistas would find "old-fashioned". So it's cute, and personally I'd even wear it sometimes if I found a bargain bottle, but other than that I personally wouldn't know what to do with this.
30th January, 2014 (last edited: 07th May, 2014)