Just lovely, masculine, contemplative bliss.
Not unlike Heeley's Phoenician melody, journey.
This though, is drier, dustier. Borders on sour. Any sugar is barely noted. It hits on the "high" points of wood, sawdust,Jasmine tea and Canadian tobacco, ethereal. Intoxicating, my brain cells say, orgasmic.
Goes to the top of my list, for procurement.
Ordered one day, delivered the next.
Today March 16th, I spent the whole day "high" bathed in this. Bliss.
15th March, 2016 (last edited: 17th March, 2016)
Clove and smoky earthy patchouli dominate this odd but pleasant masculine scent. It's as if one is in the potting shed, mucking about, and brush accidentally against the blooming carnations.
Odd that I get none of the tobacco, chocolate, coffee and other gourmand notes. This is strictly clove and patchouli for my nose. I am briefly reminded fleetingly of Equipage and its clove/carnation note, although there is no comparison between Coze and that Hermes classic.
This strikes me as being a lovely room scent if one could spray it about. It clears the air and is bright and heady. Not something I would be interested in wearing though.
On my skin this is first of all a tobacco fragrance. The tobacco leaves are wet and fresh and pleasant smelling. Other notes include patchouli and spices to add complexity. It is one of the most pleasant tobacco fragrances I have tried. Long lasting.
Coze smells like someone picked up the nicest smelling things in the world – coffee, pepper, dark chocolate, hash resin, patchouli – and shoved them into a perfume. Well, that’s not entirely true, because that implies that this perfume was a happy accident, whereas, in truth, Coze is a great example of a perfume that pulls off a complicated balancing act without alerting the wearer to the nuts and bolts of its underpinnings. In other words, it’s a smart, quasi-gourmand whose genius occurs to you when you choose to look at it closely.
For something that references both hash and the stuff we eat when we get the munchies, this is as far away from the druggy atmosphere of a teenage boy’s bedroom as can be. I think that’s because the hash note has been cleverly married to a host of green, herbal, and woody elements, thus yanking the whole thing outdoors. Whenever I wear this, I feel like I am in the company of friendly lumberjacks, sitting down in a forest opening to coffee, brownies, and a “funny” cigarette or two after a morning of cutting down trees. It is the type of perfume that makes you feel happy in an uncomplicated way.
The opening is rather dry and dark – a brief boozy moment is followed by ashy tobacco and a “brown” dust that can only be dark cocoa powder. It is delicious and also slightly spicy. I can smell hot pepper and maybe woody, dusty cloves. I like the way that this dark, dusty layer is fitted closely over a sticky green hemp base, and then finally set to smolder and smoke on a base of mahogany wood chips. It provides a perfect balance between edible and inedible, dry and balmy, and smoke and cold, clean air. Technically, it’s probably correct to call Coze a gourmand or quasi-gourmand, but its genius lies in dotting the foody notes so evenly around a dark, woodsy, smoky base that it would never occur to anyone to call it “yummy”.
I’ve heard tell that Pierre Guillaume composed Coze when he was just twenty-five, which might give any sane person reason enough to hate him, even if he weren’t so jaw-droppingly beautiful. But how can I hate someone who gave the world Coze? Or someone who apparently has sprayed Coze onto his skin during exhibitions and licked himself to demonstrate how natural and harmless his perfumes are when ingested? I too have licked my wrist while wearing Coze and I can confirm that no harm came to me. (I cannot say the same for Montale’s Chocolate Greedy, which gave me a third-degree burn on my lip when I tried the same thing). Lovely stuff all round.
On my skin, up top I definitely got the hemp with a dash of pepper, but not overwhelming to my nose (but my sample was not a spray so I had to dab, which tends to make a difference to my skin on how a fragrance presents). About midway I could pick up the patchouli and was thrilled (one of my fave scents), intermixed with coffee and chocolate. Never detected the tobacco until drydown, and then almost an ashtray tobacco scent (but not in an unpleasant way). Honestly don’t know what Ebony wood is supposed to smell like, but I detect something woody at the base so presume that’s it. At the finish, patchouli, vanilla and sweet tobacco were the strongest on my skin.
On me this was not heavy but again I had to dab instead of spray which makes a difference for me. This had fairly soft sillage for me but I used only a small amount, and if I were actually using this from a bottle I’d definitely use more and probably get better projection from it. On my skin everything seemed to settle in after about an hour, and this lasted on me for about 4 – 5 hours before becoming a faint skin scent.
I definitely see this as a cool weather scent and would not wear in spring or summer heat, but I find it unoffensive enough that I’d wear it to the office. I also can see this being a nice fragrance for either day or evening wear. Unlike other reviewers, I never picked up that clove note even though I was intentionally looking for it (and I actually like clove). On me, the patchouli and vanilla with notes of tobacco and wood dominate, and if there are any cloves in there they are buried deep! Right now I’m riding between liking it and loving it, and will try it a few more times to see if I get nudged in one direction or the other.
I know this is a unisex scent, but to my nose this comes across as quite a sweet scent and on my skin definitely falls on the feminine side. I’m not sure some men would feel comfortable wearing this, while others would. Although, having said that, this PG02 Coze is intoxicating enough that the juxtaposition between this sweet fragrance on a macho guy wearing this rising up from his chest could be an alluring combination!
As always, your results may vary!
23rd December, 2014 (last edited: 26th December, 2014)