The bergamot and the iris notes blend in with the davana essence to a pleasant, fresh-floral opening with a slightly boozy incense touch topping it off.
The drydown adds more incense with a slight slant towards a whiff of myrrh, and a soft and somewhat dull patchouli arises in the base together with a somewhat bland woodsy undertone; in the Coda of this olfactory symphony the balsamic undercurrent echoes until the end.
The sillage is moderate, the projection good and the longevity ten hours.
A pleasant spring composition, with a nice opening with a creative touch that is followed by a less convincing end game. Overall - just - a thumbs-up. 3/5.
Ok, so like most have already mentioned, just ignore the name they gave this frag and enjoy it for what it IS, and don't hate it for what it's not.
It's just a tightly spun, high quality low-key spicy floriental. And I REALLY love it. I have a 10 ml spray, and once that is gone, I imagine I'll be seeking out a bottle.
As a fan of iris note, I can't help but feel a little disappointed with ORRIS NOIR. The iris note presents itself within minutes of application, doughy-powdery and slightly fruity. But it swiftly exits center stage and fades into the body of incense, spices and dusty woods, becoming a warm yet unsweetened resinous scent. The vibe is distinctly oriental, desert-inspired.
Despite my earlier disappointment over the ephemeral iris, I feel drawn to the fragrance's subtle yet confident style. It glides smoothly over skin like expensive silk, my skin smelling as though I'd just walked through a wall of fragrant smoke. Think of it as a more discreet version of Sahara Noir if you will.
Sillage and projection settings seem fixed at 'modest' but I'm not complaining. That's my default mode anyway. Longevity is excellent.
As I sit and ponder, I think I may have cracked the code on this one. The iris is too dark or 'noir'. That's why it's not easily visible amidst all the myrrh and incense smoke. But who cares about fragrance naming conventions when the scent is capable of speaking for itself?
So where’s the “noir”? Orris Noir starts out as a rather bright, sweet, fruity fragrance, quickly supplemented with a hefty dose of powder. A blend of sweet spices emerges after several minutes, transforming the fragrance from fruit punch to baked fruit dessert and moving it toward oriental territory in the process. As Orris Noir develops the fruit calms down and the spices expand, making for much better balance. By the time I’ve worn it for an hour, Orris Noir has become a richer, though not particularly darker, scent.
To me the iris in this scent seems quite restrained – so much so that I’m surprised to find it in the name. By the time it reaches its crescendo Orris Noir is a sumptuous, if not outright decadent, sweet spicy chypre, which eventually subsides into a smooth balsamic-woody drydown. It’s a very nice scent, but its name gets no reward from me for truth in advertizing.
Orris Noir could definitely have been a LeLabo. If not for the smells itself, surely for the misleading label. LeLabo is famous for releasing fragrances named after an ingredient which too often doesn't play a relevant role in the composition itself (Rose 31 and Vetyver 46 among others). Orris Noir does basically the same thing. No iris whatsoever, not "noir" at all.
That being said, if you're fine with a peppery-woody-incensey fragrance dominated by a nice, yet unquestionably synthetic vibe, this is a pretty decent composition. Kinda dry yet, somewhat, slightly powdery, woody and incensey with nice piquant undertones. Far from being a masterpiece yet nice.