Genre: Alleged Chypre
Moss? This is a spicy gourmand fragrance, not some walk in the woods. The first few minutes are excruciatingly sweet to my nose, as honeyed green hay notes ride on a huge wave of cinnamon to quash any of the forest floor accord I'd hoped for in this fragrance. With time the green notes recede, leaving cinnamon and honey on their own. The honey in Moss Breches is raw, pungent, and animalic, a bit like that in Serge Lutens's Miel de Bois, though far less potent.
As it dries down Moss Breches leaves a trail of soft woods and vanilla. A pretty exit, but disappointing if it's a chypre you're expecting. Taken as a whole, Moss Breches is far from revolutionary, and even a little bit dull. If it's a spicy oriental I'm after, I'll stick to Noir Epices, Eau Lente, or Cimabue, thank you.
The opening is an interesting complexity… it is a bit herbal, sweet, green, spicy, with a firm earthy-mossy undertone. I would say it consciously sparkles and subconsciously seduces at once. I love it…
But unfortunately the variety within the opening lessens and what is left for most of the remainder of the fragrance is an sweet and somewhat synthetic bees wax / moss accord. The use of moss in this fragrance starts well but becomes and then remains dull, thin, a bit unnatural, and somewhat short-lived.
I don’t enjoy the smell of moss in modern fragrances when it’s used as a dominant element in an accord, and I think the restrictions on the use of genuine oak moss have a lot to do with the problems of this fragrance. Whatever… I find Moss Breches quite dull after the excitement of its opening.
24th March, 2014 (last edited: 29th May, 2014)
Got a gd deal on a 30ml decant of Moss Breches & I jumped the gun & blind bought it. I go with neutral because as Jenson mentioned in his review, it reminds of a lot of older classic colognes - I was reminded of VCA PH, Trussardi Uomo (minus the leather) & the like. To me it totally lacks originality.
The oakmoss is definitely there, but my recent acquisitions like vintage Worth PH haute concentration, vintage Paco Rabanne PH, Ho Hang Club etc have much better oakmoss (& are better overall as well).
For the price Moss Breches is found now, I think it's not worth it. Longevity is only about 4 hours, with excellent projection for the first hour / hour & half after which it's muted. The sweetness that comes in after the initial hour is something i disliked (spicy sweetness = spices + patch + beeswax???).
If you like oakmossy colognes, go for this, it will keep you enthralled in it's first hr...
Also I read a comparison to Sova, either on some thread on BN or on Fragrantica - totally uncomparable. Sova to me is a beeswax / hay monster, created wonderfully. Moss Breches does not smell anywhere near Sova...
MOSS BRECHES starts off with the dark green, slightly bitter tinge of a classic chypre before drying down to warm slightly musky/mossy undertones. It is a tale of stolen afternoons, secret gardens and that all-too-unforgettable romp on the forest floor.
The official notes are: Wood, Warm Spice, Beeswax absolute, Moroccan Clary Sage, Hungarian Tarragon, Corsican Rosemary, Labdanum, Patchouli and Benzoin.
What I get is a green, herbal, honey fragrance that lasts the whole day, with a huge projection the first couple of hours. It all ends very satisfyingly with a warm chypre-like drydown. I can't compare it to anything else as I have never smelled anything like it. Too original and unusual to be a success at the counter, unfortunately, it has now been discontinued.
27th December, 2012 (last edited: 23rd January, 2013)