I'm not a fan of Tauer's perfumes. I don't see myself owning anything he has in production. Even his beloved L'air du Desert Marocain. So I was quite surprised when I found myself really drawn to Orris. Not only do I think Orris is the best creation Andy has done, but probably one of the best perfumes created.
I can't put Orris in words. When I sniff it, I'm left with a big question mark. It's very enigmatic. It definitely has Tauer's style to it. It's like a combination of perfumes he created, but a superior version. A vague resemblance might be a cross between Lonestar Memories and Incense Rose.
I get a tomato (leaf) or raspberry note, which is probably several aspects of the very complex earthy orris root. The rose is peppered up with loads of cinnamon and bark. It sits on a birch tar, smokey frankincense, and agarwood base. There's something really fiery smokey about Orris. It has that petroleum tar feel like in Lonestar Memories. It's a dark fragrance. I get shades of black and dark red.
In the end, I recommend trying to sniff it. It's a complex scent that can't be easily explained. I wrote an email to Andy Tauer asking if he'd ever re-release Orris. He said it was made of ingredients that were too costly and scarce to source, that he only made it as a limited edition.
01st January, 2011 (last edited: 04th January, 2011)
Andy Tauer Orris
Andy Tauer is one of the nicest guys in all of artisanal perfumery. He is generous about sending out samples to the community, very forthcoming with information and clearly loves perfume. So why don't his scents send me the way they do others. Tauer has hit a solid 50% and even the ones I like are not my great loves. Until now. I had heard about Orris, the 2006 very limited release, and based on the note list it sounded like my kind of scent. Of course based on the note list L'Air du Desert Marocain is also my kind of scent and it leaves me cold and wanting more. Orris was first released as a series of samples to his faithful blog readers, see what I mean about nice. Then after much begging and pleading Tauer released a very limited edition of 200 bottles. The reason is that it is difficult to source the quality of materials needed to make this scent and that quality is evident at every stage of this one. I am a lover of iris and rose and the use of these with many of my other favorite accords might make Orris as close to a perfect scent for me as I'm likely to find. The top of Orris starts with the mix of iris, rose, pepper, cinnamon and grapefruit. The floral character is what hits my nose first followed by the tang of grapefruit and the zing of pepper and cinnamon artfully kept at a level that keeps the spices from overwhelming the florals. The iris, rose and cinnamon linger and are joined by what might be my favorite incense accord. This is is not the high mass incense or the head shop incense, this is incense from inside a Tibetan temple in which a fire is built as there is a smokiness in conjunction with the sweetness of the incense. Combine this with the now-dominant rose and cinnamon and the heart of this is incredible. Finally the woods make an appearance as a mix of sandalwood and agarwood (oud) show up and now turn this scent into a woody wonderland as the creaminess of the sandalwood complements the strength of the agarwood and brings this to a resounding crescendo at the close. Orris is a deceptively strong scent as it feels like a skin scent but based on the people around me it has some sillage and projection. I'm not in the habit of saying I'm looking for a "holy grail" or the "one scent I'd save in case of nuclear holocaust" but Orris is definitely on the short list of scents I'd consider for those positions.
I'm a new community member and forgive my rather blunt approach to rating fragrances: I don't know that many notes but I am a female and I cannot imagine wearing this scent; I can't even imagine my husband wearing it; it smells like what I would imagine an outdoor medicine man's teepee might smell like -- I do not pick up on any floral at all here just bitter, medicinal albeit subtle wafts of different scents I am not familiar with: I suspect they are the orris (which I guess is iris root?); or violet? Neither of these are apparently for me. To date my favorite fragrances are Bois des Iles and Sacre Bleu; far sweeter, softer, more feminine. Don't know: my husband likes them both but vastly prefers Sacre Bleu.
This is a wonderfully done fragrance ... however, florals and I don't get along very well. It's just not for me. I gave my sample to a young friend and find myself appreciating it more and more when he wears it ... but I enjoy it more on others than on myself.
This has the signature Tauer "tar" note, but it is much more smoothly
blended with the other notes than in LDDM or Lonestar Memories. The tar retreats into the background early on, leaving a rich and warm interpretation
of the iris note.
It is a well-balanced and intoxicating scent that is dark and sensual in the vein of Voleur de Roses. This was my first full-bottle floral purchase, and my first iris.
I see no need for any other. This is an easy Holy Grail for someone, man or woman. When I wear this, I envision a heat-shimmer of energy pulsing from my body, wave upon wave, perfectly synchronized with the beating of my heart.
Art... Mystery... Seduction... and Love...
They are all here in abundance! Thank you Andy Tauer for this fabulous scent! Both thumbs up!
Tart and herbal at the opening, which is now my favorite part of this scent. Menthol, lemon, sage notes create a tart/green pine quality. Accompanied by Iris, it is incense like, peppery and dry. Overall, this scent has a crisp white smokiness to it, ironically very clean. Exquisite, like the first smell of expensive leather. And the rose is hidden far under the other notes, it is just a whisper. Much later this lingers on your scarf or lapel as a piney wood and spice scent. I love this scent for a man or woman. I wear it and think of walking through gentle woods, it is incredibly centering.