Kinmokusei (2006)
by Ayala Moriel

This is a stunning work and a shimmeringly complex soliflore. It opens with a hypnotic and nectary note that on me smells a bit like the pulp of a fresh fig, this quickly gives way to the very wet and almost cedary osmanthus at its core, and here I can certainly detect the green tea mentioned above. This finally settles into a sweet young tabacco. The whole thing feels dripping wet and foggy. Though on me the citrusy notes that others seem to have picked out are present but far more muted.

I normally will never wear a floral perfume though I appreciate them, gravitating instead to more masculine leathery, green and woody accords (I am a woman who wears Un Homme de Caron as a staple fragrance), but I intend to buy a whole bottle of this-- it is just a beautifully crafted scent. What strikes me most is the balance of the composition: neither too sweet nor too bitter, too floral or too amber, it is undeniably feminine but darkly so. The scent pools in your throat and lungs in a way that's difficult to give words to, except to say that it is precisely the opposite of how the heady and bubbly florals I destest strike my palate. I agree with the first reviewer here that there is something deeply contemplative about it. It is all mystery-- osmanthus plucked by moonlight.

I also found that the dry-down takes on a very different character on different places on my body. On the wrist it lingers florally a while longer, whereas on the neck or chest it cleves to the tabacco basenotes--pleasent either way.

Kinmokusei, like all of Moriel's fragrances that I have tried, is outstanding, and unique. I own Kinmokusei, and I enjoy it very much. Moriel describes Kinmokusei as an "osmanthus soliflore", but this comes across on me with a complexity that is extremely rare for a soliflore. Konmokusei is a citrusy green tea fragrance which has a strange, alluring tobacco-like drydown. It begins in a zesty and summery way, but the drydown has a darkness that adds melancholy and quiescence. The deep base notes cause this fragrance to split from bright and light into a heavy, resiny scent. When I am in a contemplative mood, this fragrance works perfectly. It's fascinating.

I like this fragrance very much. I need to be in the right mood. It reminds me of apricot, but is far more interesting than that. Like Philosykos, it's very fresh.

Zingy, sharp, fresh opening that is innovative and original. This perfume strikes me as being pretty in the same way as Diptyque Philosykos, the fig leaf fragrance. There is a certain freshness, like walking into the coolness of the produce aisle. Tangy like mango and aromatic like white peach. On the other hand, green like celery or pepper. Attractive and cool. Smells like summertime.