The Unicorn Spell (2006)
by LesNez

The best LesNez scent, so far.

The main thing that grabs me about this one is the dominant violet note and its interaction with the sharp green notes – I find this aspect refreshing and quite intriguing. Although slightly feminine, I could easily see a man wearing this. However, once again, it’s too weak to even be considered bottle worthy.

[Original submission date: 15 January 2007]

Les Nez The Unicorn Spell

Notes: Violet (LesNez.com)

The Unicorn Spell starts in a devastatingly green part of the spectrum. Initially, there is a strong resemblance to raw green beans. Lest anybody think their fragrance experience will be ruined by a nasty vegetable odor, let me say two things. First, this aspect lasts mere seconds while the juice dries. Second, fresh green beans smell GREAT. These are not the sorry, soggy flavorless green beans you get from a can. They are the bitter green things you pick from vines in the garden, and to my nose, smell so much like sappy stems and wood, that they almost do not seem edible. Also, if I may take a jab at a certain Hermes "tomato stem" accord, I find the opening of TUS to be far fresher and more inviting.

As TUS moves into the mid notes, the star of the show becomes obvious--violet. Violet leaf, violet stem, violet root, violet blossom. This is an arrestingly gorgeous dry, green woody note that is softly supported by orris root. I am not sure if I can detect galbanum, but to be sure, the violet leaf note is complex enough to have swallowed any galbanum whole. A galbanum-like bitterness is certainly present. This middle stage develops very slowly over a few hours. The bitter green softens as the iris takes over, making the whole thing seem more billowy. I have the feeling I am in a field of wild flowers at the edge of a forest. Here I can smell indistinct florals and fragrant foliage baking in the sun while I also smell the damp coolness of the forest floor and aromatic, woody tree bark.

Sadly, the base notes do not support this fragrance much beyond the time the mid notes fade. At this stage (around four hours after application) TUS becomes a very close-wearing skin scent of gentle ambergris, slightly sweet and salty. I absolutely adore this interpretation of "green" using violet and iris, and this is no surprise since I love green fragrances on the whole (especially Chanel No.19). In comparison to No.19, TUS is much greener, less overtly floral, and does not ever turn very powdery. In fact, TUS is almost an anti-perfume. The fragrance is evocative, but it doesn't seem to be a beauty product per se. Likewise, it is not so experiential that it is forced into the realm of an unwearable concept piece. I am smitten by this green beauty that walks the line between conventional fragrance and something completely different.

Loved this. It's cool, green, dark, and crisp. Wouldn't be without it.

Very well made cute little fragrance which is however not my style mainly because I like fragrances with a bit more kick to them. This is very subtle, almost weak fragrance.

Burst straight from the sample vial/bottle smells quite lovely: Cool and crisp violets with dusty rooty tone. Smells very earthy, very intriguing. The one could swear there must be a doze of orris in the blend….

That very delicate earthiness remains all the way through. This is indeed very vegetal fragrance. Makes me think of fresh green plants, violets at the gates of dawn, dust, gooseberry bushes, apple tree blossoms, freshly cut grass etc.


Actually a beautiful fragrance, but like I said it’s not made for me. But I also have to admit I was a bit too harsh and hasty on reviewing one other scent from this company (LMPTL), when I said “all of their (LezNez) fragrances are totally pointless…”

Oh well….The Unicorn Spell is not TOTALLY pointless! And the new release, Manoumalia, is quite nice too.

I find this opens with a blast of green beans. And though the green beans dissipate over time, they don't go away, just become slightly sweeter and more powdery. Interesting, but not for me.

For what "The Unicorn Spell" lacks in casual wearability, it makes up for in establishing a mystical ambience. This fragrance completely carries it's mythical mantle and is cooly distant, but not disturbing."The Unicorn Spell" smells of ancient ideals of honor and fundamental goodness. This is the "Joan of Arc" of fragrance or something an Elvin princess would wear. This is what I'd imagine the mythological goddess Athena would smell of. For mortals, through iris-grey haze or misty mineral water, you face the unicorn and accept your fairy tale task or eternal fate; it was already written in the stars. There is a nice usage of violet and iris in this potion--two notes that often veer dangerously toward sugar-syrypy sweetness--and a subtle wetness that makes me think of full-moon nights in dewy forests. 'The Unicorn Spell" is a gracefully charming fragrance but as such, can become an exhausting aura to carry off day-in and day-out. I think I'll save this scent for days when I want to be a more philosophically contemplative and poised to fight battles of legendary ideals.