Bois d'Arménie (2006)
by Guerlain

Guerlain Bois D'Armenie

Guerlain has been very hit or miss on their most contemporary creations which has made me cautious when it comes to trying the new ones especially when it seems to be in territory Guerlain is not known for. Bois D'Armenie was released in 2006 and it was inspired by Papier D'Armenie. Papier D'Armenie are little incnse infused strips, used as air-freshener, they are loaded with benzoin and give off a resinous vanilla scent when burned. Annick Menardo is the nose behind Bois D'Armenie and when thinking of her creations of Bvlgari Black and Le Labo Patchouli 24 I wonder how working for Guerlain will affect her style. There I sit looking at the bottle thinking a strong modern incense scent from Guerlain? Not likely. Happily I sprayed the perfume on me and was instantly enchanted. Anyone who has paid attention to my reviews knows how much I like incense scents. My favorites are all very strong, Bois D'Armenie has opened my eyes to what a subtle incense can do. The very top of Bois D'Armenie captures the sweet smell of burning paper which is appropriate considering the inspiration. From there a beautiful vanillic resin accord comes in. This couldn't be more like the experience of burning a strip of Papier D'Armenie and if this scent ended here it would be good. But there is another word in our name, Bois, and the woods need to show up, and they do in the heart. The incense pulls back and is replaced by a balsam accord and a dry patchouli and this is a beautiful complement to the beginning. There are still hints of the top notes and they accentuate the notes present in the heart. The base slowly becomes more woody over time and there is some musk added to give some more depth to the base. Bois D'Armenie is very long lasting on me but it wears fairly close and as a result does not produce much sillage. Bois D'Armenie might be one of the most quiet incense scents I own, it is also one of the best I own.

The French invented papiers d'Arménie, strips of paper that were impregnated with incense notes of benzoin and frankincense. These were burned to perfume the air in the home in the days before air fresheners. Guerlain has updated the concept into a beautiful oriental fragrance that deepens the resinous notes with patchouli, rich woods, and balsams; at the same time it is lightened by florals and brought out by delicate spicy notes. This is really a distinguished shared fragrance, and a smooth and elegant presence for any wearer.

Nibble-me delicious benzoin creates the overall effect of a creamy, light gourmand. Too sweet and tasty to be a traditional male scent, I would call it unisex, even feminine.

I wish the vanilla note were tuned down just a notch so that the orris, pepper and incense--all present for the first few breathtaking minutes-- would last longer. But as the SA on the Champs Elysées told me: "Vanilla? But that's Guerlain!"

I usually avoid vanilla (and its friends and family), but after said SA generously perfumed my hair and clothing for a test drive, I had to go back the next day for a full bottle.

This is truly a very successful rendition of papiers d'Arménie – so much that it actually brings back childhood memories. It’s a rich resinous mixture of woods, benzoin, incense, subtle florals and vanilla.

My main complaint is that it doesn’t really project that much and its longevity could have been a lot better. For the high price tag, a faint skin scent is not really worth my hard earned cash – especially for an exclusive EDP.

If it weren’t for these main flaws, I would have awarded Bois d'Arménie a thumbs-up.

While I find this rich and full of resinous sweetness, I also find this rather bland. It's all basenotes. Not as complex as you'd think though I do love the hint of woods in this. The woods round out the overall experience into a warm scent great for cool days. Stays very close to the skin and has good longevity. I'm not one to plunk cash down for this.

Rarely do you see so many reviews all heap what is essentially the same praise on a fragrance: Shockingly Beautiful. Bois d'Armenie is at once delicate and rich, woody and sweet, - this is a perfectly balanced fragrance. Light woody notes are weaved together with incense and pepper via benzoin and musk (and to my nose a light vanilla, though it's not listed). As it develops the woody notes reside and patchouli becomes more prominent - at which pepper notes fade out. The subtle interaction between the notes coming and going is something to behold. It also becomes slightly sweeter over time, at times coming close to feeling like a gourmand, but it never quite does - at least not nearly as much as it's sister scent, Iris Ganache.

Although I don't have a tremendous amount of experience with Guerlain, this typifies the best of the house. BdA is made to be worn and not just smelled on a strip. I would be a happy man if I could just have this aroma wafting around me always. The notes are in perfect harmony, and it is gorgeous without being ostentatious. It's true this won't project far, it's more of a skin scent, but it doesn't matter one bit because I want my skin to smell like this! Other reviews claim this is marketed as a male scent, although I've seen it on an upscale online retailer as a feminine scent. I'd say it's 100% unisex.

If you can't already tell - I'm smitten. $200 be damned - this is my next bottle.