Reading its description, I held high hopes for Sienne d'Hiver. Smoke, liquor, leather - what's there not to like? The opening fed my optimism, since the smoke and leather were right up front, along with some mysterious green notes.
Then, about a half an hour into the development, I started catching a conspicuous sour note that I couldn't quite place. What could it be? I went back for a look at the note pyramid, and there it was: olives! Green olives, with pimientos in them. The effect was sharp and jarring, and soon began to remind me of Tabasco sauce - the way it smells when you stick your nose right up to the bottle. As for the truffle, if it's in there it gets steamrollered by the green olive/Tabasco accord. Too bad, because black truffle, used correctly, would be one heck of a fragrance note!
Sienne d'Hiver left me baffled and disappointed. I see no reflection of the beautiful old Tuscan city in this brew.
Really wasn't my cup of tea that geranium leaf violet petals, and fern comes off as smelling like poison ivey.
I completely get the Dzongkha reference - the opening is very similar. Both have the odd effect (in common also with Magie Noire) of making me feel...not hungry exactly, but quite literally 'un buco allo stomaco'. Weird. Anyway, that aside, I find the development of this to be too vegetal for my tastes. Clever, yes, but not really what I want to smell of - chilli peppers, a slight smokiness, a touch of truffle perhaps - it's all great, but not for me (although possibly quite true to its name).
I also find it to be quite linear: after the opening blast dies down and the body of the scent comes through, it doesn't really go any further - 5 hours in and it's exactly the same as it started.
Great longevity though.
Purchased a sample and immediately thought of cocktail sauce (sorry). After trying it again, I went from negative to neutral in my estimation of the juice. If the idea here is to smell "different" this achieves that and then some, but if the idea is to actually smell good, which is my goal, this one isn't it. I cant give it a negative rating, but I can't say it is positive either. I wanted to love this one so much, but it just isn't my cup of tea.
An experimental game of contrasts.
A failure or a stroke of genius? The second option in my humble opinion, for sure. I tend to appreciate a lot such experimental type of fragrances and admire for sure the Bertrand Duchaufour's huge creativity. I suppose the perfumer's goal was by soon to create an olfactory contrast between an outdoors cold, humid and botanic atmosphere of mountain (fern, violet, ozone, olibanum, wet rocks effect etc) and an indoor cozy, comfortable and "culinary" ambience of the woody shelters erected on the hits of the stone alleys of mountain (truffles, beans, leather, chestnuts). The elements are magistrally combined all together. I detect by soon floral notes, humid earth, cedarwood, rubber, mineral molecules, stale air of grandmather bedroom, fungus of canteens, furs, iris and grass. I also detect the incensey vibe for sure and smell in the air some Dzongkha's callbacks even if to be sincere the first aroma jumped to my mind in a while after the first dab was the Petroleum's one (and some accents of Rosam), yes, i felt on my skin a sort of more fluidy, airy and light (floral) sort of HDP'one, probably because of those feels of wet leather, grass, vintage amber, cool air and wet concrete mixed together. I don't smell a particular smoky vibe while tend to feel the cold air and a standout gummy violet perfectly combined with olibanum, moulds, culinary conserves (olive, beans, truffle) and rubber in order to create a real moonshiny work of art for us. A fully deserved thumbs up.
Pros: Balanced and original.