One of the best ambers. Beast mode projection/longevity. Nothing to dislike unless you dislike Amber. 10/10
The eponymous amber strikes me from the beginning, but this is quite an unusual amber note: neither heavy nor resinous, it a lightness and brightness that is quite unusual, and that is owed to a restrained bergamot and some hesperidic undertones.
In the drydown an light, unobtrusive powdery imoression is added; this is not a rich traditional barbershop powderiness, but it is more of the lighter and mire elegant version. Here I also get some coriander with a few woodsy notes mixed in, adding depth and richness to the amber.
The base adds an - again restrainedly - sweet - vanilla aroma together with a soft patchouli that is intertwined with whiffs of white musk.
I get moderate sillage, good projection and a splendid twelve hours from this creation.
Nothing extraordinary here, but a nice springtime re-interpretation of the traditionally darker and harsher ambery approach. At the border between neutral and positive, this is pushed across the line due the pleasant and somewhat unconventional approach towards the creation of an amber note, and by its impressive longevity. Less intensive and less intrusive than other products of the same house. 3/5.
Iím wary of ambers Ė they can be too warm, too monolithic (sitting like a migraine-triggering lump on oneís skin), too familiar. Many wear out their welcome as far as Iím concerned, smelling the same for hours on end and too rich by half. The ambers I do go for tend to have the sweets severely cut down Ė like Olympic Orchidís quirky Olympic Amber that is dark, dry and smells of boot polish. Or they are not the principal theme of the perfume, revealing their hand only in the later stages.
Blue Amber is hugely sweet but in the baby powder rather than the treacly mode that so many ambers adopt. Here it reminded me of certain characterless vintages of a bygone era Ė yup, not all discontinued vintage perfumes were masterpieces of chypric archness, many just smelled of talc and flavourless boiled sweets. It also has a whopping dose of synthetic vanilla, equal in power to the resinous ambery base.
But its main flaw is that it is trying to do something interesting (a pink-clad bawling baby amber, Iíll try some of that) with ingredients that my nose perceives as el cheapo. A kind of eau-de-pesticide feel hangs around its edges Ė maybe a side effect of all that powder mixing with resins? It does get increasingly resinous in the drydown but itís just not for me.
Blue Amber is a go to when one wants to have the Amber glow to last for days. Has a brutal opening that is almost sour, however smooths out nicely and is never too sweet. Spreads and reaches into the pores, very tenacious, lasting many hours and can be detected through showers. What is left ia a lingering, comforting, "Baby Powder" effect.
Overall the sweeter, linear, ambered Nutmeg of Ambre 114 is my personal fave, however this has it's place. Thumb's up!!
11th January, 2016 (last edited: 09th January, 2017)
Blue Amber opens with a bergamot and geranium that quickly fades into a sweet vanilla-amber theme. This is a sweaty, almost sour like amber, with nothing resinous or smokey to be found. While amber is not a favorite note for me, I really don't care for this version much at all. IMO it's too vanilla and amber dominant and given the high sillage from Montale, this is one I'll have to pass on.
Neutral at best.
18th December, 2015 (last edited: 04th January, 2017)