Charmes et Feuilles (2006)
by Different Company

Without any knowledge of the notes, to my nose, UN PARFUM DE CHARMES ET FEUILLES is a unisex woody floriental which seems to contain wormwood or absinthe or some combination of notes with a similar effect. The dominant floral is definitely jasmine. There is more dark forest than there are flowers here, although the overall feeling is rather subtle compared to many green or woody perfumes.

I find this offering from The Different Company to be quite a bit more interesting than some of the others I've recently tried. CHARMES ET FEUILLES evokes in my mind images of Hansel and Gretel or Little Red Riding Hood walking through a lush forest as the sun begins to set. Danger seems to be lurking just around the bend...

25th August, 2011.

Following a spry, moderately pleasant opening of mint and sage with clementine and jasmine, the 'Feuilles' vanish and the fragrance recedes as a lily-livered floral nuisance that smells both cheap and shapeless.

All of these 'Parfum de Something and Another' scents from The Different Company ultimately succumb to that sporadically apparent Ellena family trait of insipid neutrality that drives me to despair. At least ugliness, unlike prettiness, can be instructive.

22nd February, 2011.

Here I am in the embarrassing role of sole diss(c)enter. I’m not sure if my opinion would have been swayed had I read the unanimous praise from fellow Basenoters, but sniffing blind I’ve found Un Parfum de Charmes et Feuilles a model of the unfortunate fragrance whose development traces a consistent downward arc.

The opening smells of stemmy green hyacinth, narcissus, sharp aldehydes, and minty herbaceous notes, and so long as the herbs hold out the effect is pleasantly refreshing. Once they disperse, what remains is a harsh, soapy lily-of-the-valley reconstruction that smells first of good shampoo and later of Glade lily-of-the-valley air freshener. The extended drydown is in immaculate imitation of White Linen, only a good deal more abrasive. (Read: “cheap.”) My experience is so at odds with all before me that I suspect either my nose or a recent, bad reformulation.

23rd July, 2010. (Last Edited: 24th July, 2010.)

In reading the reviewers before me I see all are men except one. Ladies, don't be afraid to step up and try this one; it's very warm and fresh.

I love this, actually. i did't think I would because I've sampled other scents with garden herb notes, but wow, this one really works for me. I agree wiht all the descriptions below, particularly Foetidus' review. What I would add is that with my feminine chemistry this becomes warm and sweet; more floral than herbal.

This is Mitsouko like without the contrasting chypre base. Same effect, though- you'll walk around with your nose glued to your wrist. I'd really like to try this in pure parfum; as the sillage could be better. Six stars!

19th May, 2010.

Notes: aromatic herbs (sage, marjoram, serpolet/wild thyme), Indian jasmine, peppermint leaves, grapefruit, clementine, patchouli
This is a nice scent in two distinct phases. The first is citrus and herbs. Lovely orange blossom-like notes are here. The scent is very zesty, refreshing, and slightly soapy in character. The mint leaves give it real green freshness without a “toothpaste” aspect. The second phase is introduced by jasmine which is closely followed by patchouli. I find that the jasmine and patchouli together here produce a tobacco-leaf chord. At times I find a hay or coumarin sort of note. This is the distinctive feature of the dry-down. It seems like a summery, natural sort of scent to me.

12nd February, 2010.

Un Parfum de Charmes et Feuilles is described as an "enchanted garden" in the official blurbs. I love the opening; mint and herbs and citrus; just one of the most accomplished and sophisticated openings I've come across and here's the thing I appreciate most - it does not smell of "yet another cologne". With a herbal citrus, you'd usually be heading in that direction straight away (which is not bad; I love a good cologne, but it's just delightful when there's a surprise like this).

Jasmine starts to come through pretty early; the smell of it here is almost a texture to me - where the opening was jagged green and yellow lines, here comes jasmine, all brown and fuzzy. It doesn't sit there separately from the earlier notes at all; which is great, but one comical thing happens - the addition of jasmine suddenly makes the citrus-herb concoction smell soapy and the skanky undertone of jasmine is (either on its own or together with some added animalics like synthetic civet) creates a bit of a bad-breath and/or bathroom smell that just lingers at the edge of your perception.

For the rest of the development, the scent flip-flops between a herbal floral and old-fashioned bathroom soap.

It manages to be very sophisticated, very moorish, but a little bit unsettling.

I own it and love it, but I'd change the description to "An enchanted bathroom".

4th April, 2009. (Last Edited: 17th June, 2009.)