Genre: Green Floral
Here’s a case where testing a fragrance without reference to other reviews leaves me in the role of sole diss(c)enter. I’m not sure what my impression might have been had I read all of the unstinting praise from fellow Basenoters, but sniffing blind I’ve found Un Parfum de Charmes et Feuilles an unfortunate example of the fragrance whose development traces a consistent downward arc.
The opening smells of stemmy green hyacinth, narcissus, sharp aldehydes, and minty herbaceous notes, and so long as the herbs hold out the effect is pleasantly refreshing. Once they disperse, what remains is a harsh, soapy lily-of-the-valley reconstruction that smells first of good shampoo and later of Glade lily-of-the-valley air freshener. The extended drydown is in immaculate imitation of White Linen, only a good deal more abrasive (read: “cheap”). My experience is so at odds with all before me that I suspect either my nose or a recent, bad reformulation.
Fresh and soft. Smells really good and clean. Bit of a medicinal/herbal touch, would work better as a room fragrance to me.
30th January, 2014 (last edited: 05th April, 2014)
Utterly charming. One of those ‘What is it?’ scents, but so light and breezy, you give up trying to figure it out and just go with it. The herbs are airy and abstracted and they encircle the lightest of jasmines in a cheerful green dance. What Miyake’s A Scent could have been if it had been structured better. Towards the end of its cycle a cardamom note develops that makes the wearer smell like a milky pudding; the only miss-step.
Quite exceptional herbal and leafy with an extraordinary opening and a spicy and cheerful dry down with very elegant vetiver and sage. The floral notes on my skin are subdued although marjoram could be the special one here as I at least don’t get Jasmine. The mint makes for a piquant opening that follows the development of the fragrance. Charmes et Feuilles does smell old fashioned but it’s also unexpected, long lasting and warm. I am very happy with this one given that some other offerings from TDC although beautiful are very light with small projection. After 4 hours Charmes et Feuilles stays close to the skin... still not too close. If you like herbal concoctions, or should I say elixirs, you should certainly try this one.
Without any knowledge of the notes, to my nose, UN PARFUM DE CHARMES ET FEUILLES is a unisex woody floriental which seems to contain wormwood or absinthe or some combination of notes with a similar effect. The dominant floral is definitely jasmine. There is more dark forest than there are flowers here, although the overall feeling is rather subtle compared to many green or woody perfumes.
I find this offering from The Different Company to be quite a bit more interesting than some of the others I've recently tried. CHARMES ET FEUILLES evokes in my mind images of Hansel and Gretel or Little Red Riding Hood walking through a lush forest as the sun begins to set. Danger seems to be lurking just around the bend...
Following a spry, moderately pleasant opening of mint and sage with clementine and jasmine, the 'Feuilles' vanish and the fragrance recedes as a lily-livered floral nuisance that smells both cheap and shapeless.
All of these 'Parfum de Something and Another' scents from The Different Company ultimately succumb to that sporadically apparent Ellena family trait of insipid neutrality that drives me to despair. At least ugliness, unlike prettiness, can be instructive.