Charmes et Feuilles (2006)
by Different Company

Un Parfum de Charmes et Feuilles, meaning “charms and leaves,” I believe. It is one of those fragrances that has grown in my estimation as I have been testing it. My first test brought shock at its strength. I thought it was heady and super-flowery and that it smelled old fashioned. Second time it was much better – quite strong but with pleasant, refined floral accord: Jasmine I think, but I couldn’t be sure because it’s in a well-integrated accord that makes it smoothly, richly textured. After several tests, Un Parfum de Charmes et Fueilles still begins strong, but the intensity of the sillage immediately drops to an acceptable level – and soon after that, becomes positively balanced. The fact that I still can’t identify any of the floral notes except for the jasmine continues to bother me: I have the feeling that I should be able to identify those excellent wisps of floral essence that come across intermittently… orange blossom is highly possible... The opening accord has grown to be a serious challenge for me, and I think that maybe it’s the marjoram that is responsible for that unique treatment of citrus and floral that I am experiencing. The leafy herbs - peppermint, thyme, and sage - provide not an herbal ambiance, but that rustic green and patchouli platform that comes to dominate the fragrance. Those herbs add an attractively palpable earthy dimension to the elegantly direct floral accords: This uncomplicated fragrance provides minimalism with a winsome bucolic shadow done with deft artistry. Charming. (Edit of 07 September 2008 review.)

Un Parfum de Charmes et Feuilles is described as an "enchanted garden" in the official blurbs. I love the opening; mint and herbs and citrus; just one of the most accomplished and sophisticated openings I've come across and here's the thing I appreciate most - it does not smell of "yet another cologne". With a herbal citrus, you'd usually be heading in that direction straight away (which is not bad; I love a good cologne, but it's just delightful when there's a surprise like this).

Jasmine starts to come through pretty early; the smell of it here is almost a texture to me - where the opening was jagged green and yellow lines, here comes jasmine, all brown and fuzzy. It doesn't sit there separately from the earlier notes at all; which is great, but one comical thing happens - the addition of jasmine suddenly makes the citrus-herb concoction smell soapy and the skanky undertone of jasmine is (either on its own or together with some added animalics like synthetic civet) creates a bit of a bad-breath and/or bathroom smell that just lingers at the edge of your perception.

For the rest of the development, the scent flip-flops between a herbal floral and old-fashioned bathroom soap.

It manages to be very sophisticated, very moorish, but a little bit unsettling.

I own it and love it, but I'd change the description to "An enchanted bathroom".

A very nice blend of herbs and jasmine together with the deep, woody note of patchouli. This is very, very green — deeply and intensely so. The herb bouquet is splendid, especially with the citrus notes. The choice of the somewhat woody-camphoraceous Arabian (or night-blooming) jasmine (Jasminum sambac) for the floral note in this scent is also particularly suited for use with the sharp herbal notes, because this species of jasmine is also spicier, muskier, and more penetrating than either Jasminum officinale or the grandiflorum varieties. The drydown with patchouli in the base also marries well with that standout floral note, and when it mellows, it smooths out beautifully. This is a definite keeper.

Went in search of Bahiana, but production problems with that forced me to look elsewhere and boy am I glad I came across this gem. Wonderful top notes of jasmin, clementine and grapefruit moving into a jasmin sambac, pepper, sage and patchouli wonderland with the citrus notes still hanging around in the background. Perfect for summer. Beautiful.

Kaern

Orange blossom perfection. Perfect for a man or a woman. Very light and decent lasting power, although it stays close to the skin.