
I have been trying to understand Coromandel for a while now. I first tried it from a small 1ml dabber sample. At the time, my initial impressions were the same as much of the Chanel Exclusifs line--high quality ingredients, seems like a solid composition worthy of the Chanel name, etc., etc. Of the ones I tried, Coromandel was toward the top, but not quite good enough for me to want to explore it with any particular zeal. I shelved it for another time...a time when I would have a spray decant and a larger amount I could wear several times. Finally, I rekindled this back-burner fragrance.
Coromandel starts off very spicy and earthy. It supposedly contains patchouli, however, it is definitely not a "head shop" type of patchouli. In fact, it seems almost not patchouli at all except for the quirky aromatic plant root smell which is one of patchouli's strong characteristics. The spice is a blend, probably of pepper, cinnamon and clove. Like other fragrances that combine patchouli and spice, the mixture is very synergistic, making the patch seem less funky and the spices less edible. Below the surface is an overripe fruit and boozy floral accord, but in the beginning, it is not very apparent. It gives the dry patchouli and spice a bit of needed wetness and some sweetness. The fragrance develops much more slowly than the other Exclusifs I have tried (Eau de Cologne, 31 Rue Cambon, 28 La Pausa and Bel Respiro), and it is stronger, more like a cross between EDT and EDP.
As the top notes settle, the fruit and floral notes becomes more prominent. I think Coromandel is classified as an oriental, and so far it fits this category. The fruit and floral accord reminds me of a similar accord in Shiseido Feminite du Bois. The honey and woody notes of FdB are lacking in Corormandel, but the raisiny tart and sweet "desert wine" is there. Actually, this accord seems to be exactly the same as the overripe fruit and floral I smell in 31 Rue Cambon. It is as if the perfumer took this one central accord, "florified" it for 31RC and "spicified" it for Coromandel. Given that something in 31RC turned really sour on my skin in the drydown, I am very happy to have this yummy accord in a different composition that works much better on my skin.
In the middle part of the development, Coromandel still has the spice and patchouli. At this stage, the fragrance really smells a lot like dirt to me. The dirt is so strong, it eclipses most everything else. When I try to pick out the other notes, I still smell the spices pretty strongly, but the fermented fruit accord is quite a bit more subdued. Also at this stage, a powdery floral note comes out, and to my nose, this is the only truly feminine part of the development. The dirt is rather strong, though, and on me this stage lasts a pretty long time (at least an hour, probably more like two). It could be that a resin is responsible for this dirt scent, or perhaps a combination of resin with the patchouli. Some fragrances that have a lot of resins in the base tend to have a strange, almost BO scent to them. Combined with patchouli, I can certainly imagine a weird mix of salty, BO-ish resin and aromatic plant roots translating into the smell of dirt. I suppose this could be a turnoff for some, but I find it to be fascinating.
In the late stages, Coromandel takes a twist, and seems to turn from an oriental to a fougere (free of oakmoss, of course). I smell dry spices, some powder, light incense (probably also from the resin), some herbs, and a very nice amber musk. In fact, in the drydown, Coromandel smells incredibly close to the drydown of Divine l'Homme Sage, but a bit less dry and with some floral lingering from the middle notes. Well, I love Dl'HS, so I am really enamored of the Coromandel drydown also. And, I must say that the spices were extremely well behaved throughout--bright and sharp, but not taking over the whole composition. Longevity has been great--I can still smell it 12 hours later.
I believe Coromandel is classified as a women's fragrance, but I have no doubt that a man could wear this one. The middle stage with juicy fermented fruit and a bit of floral powder may be the only deterrents. I don't care much for gender labels, but if I compare this to other female fragrances from Chanel, it seems really different--much more mutable, dependent upon mood, time of day, and what stage of development the fragrance has reached. It certainly carries the legacy of Coco with the boozy floral note, but there is nothing else in Chanel's line that comes close to Coromandel. I certainly hope this is a sign of things to come.