Eau de Cologne (2007)
by Chanel

I must say that I am impressed by Chanel’s Eau de Cologne. For me it is almost everything that I want in a traditional or pseudo-traditional eau de cologne. Nevertheless, I am unimpressed by its price tag. At first spray I detect a bright, vibrant citrus opening like so many others—Extra Vieille, Imperiale, Eau de Coq, etc. Then the rose and animal musk (a super expensive musk so says Luca Turin) appear as a brief sweaty herbal accord that gives way to a base of musk, light amber, and oakmoss. I am not certain there is oakmoss, but the base smells strikingly similar to the chypre base of the original Pour Monsieur, which I adore. There is a certain modern edge, but it is hard to find. I say get Chanel Eau de Cologne. Don’t buy your next three and get this instead. A 200ml bottle is $200, but it’s worth it.

Chanel's Eau de Cologne is so good, it should essentially be the reference for all traditional colognes, which should then be judged relative to this Chanel version. The citrus is crisp and bracing, the herbal/woody drydown is smooth yet pronounced. I don't seem to have the same longevity problems others experience, with the basenotes persisting 6 hours after application, which isn't great compared to other Exclusifs but is great compared to most traditional colognes, and is certainly significantly better than the other great cologne, Hermes Eau d'Orange Verte. Although the fragrances that become references are usually the pioneers, Chanel's is a modern entry that has assimilated the best aspects of many generations' worth of traditional fragrances in this genre to create this classic.

Over the last 12 months I've tried most of the Chanel Exclusifs and this is the one that has stayed with me. I have no problems with sillage, it lasts well on my skin. Yes it is subtle but that's just as things should be. I have compared it to a number of the other Eau de Colognes mentioned above and I find it to be superior in freshness and complexity. Other men seem to notice it and like it, which can be a plus or a minus depending on your outlook on life. I detect a little cynicism out there re Les Exclusifs, yes it's a grand gesture and obviously there's a marketing strategy at play but so what... this is the superior contemporary Eau de Cologne, perfect for daytime and post gymnasium. If you can stand the price you should indulge.

It's Eau de Cologne. The lemon is exceptionally tart, the herbs smell very natural, and it lasts all of 30 minutes. Max. Eau de Guerlain smells just as good, lasts twice as long, and costs a whole lot less.

WOW! $175 Cologne! Simple, natural smelling, but not worth the price. The decant I purchased had its cap unscrewed slightly so it evaporated all to but a film of citrus, patchouli, and that urine like smell that comes associated with concentrated Neroli. Not really a great loss, longevity was rather pathetic with this one, people might be happier picking up Mugler Cologne or Paul Smith Story.

I leave the side door and step out into the cold citrus blossom laden wind. The stone path brushes past lavender and mint but the rosemary rises tallest, dark and resinous. As I walk the fresh breeze passes across me, carrying the scent of open plains and rocky peaks beckoning me on.