Genre: Floral Oriental
This beautifully crafted, sweet, soft, rose-based floral oriental is almost too pretty for its own good. The accord of mild rose and sweet vanilla established over Brūlure de Roses first few minutes immediately brings to mind Maurice Roucels delightful Tocade, done for Rochas in the mid-1990s. Yet as much as the newer scent echoes its predecessors fundamental structure, Brūlure de Rose distinguishes itself through a different interpretation of the shared theme.
Whereas Tocade remains bright and somewhat crystalline throughout its development thanks perhaps to some judiciously employed green notes Brūlure de Rose grows darker, softer, and more voluptuous as it wears. I attribute this effect to perfumer Pierre Guillaumes use of a very rich, almost smoky wood accord, reminiscent of those hes employed in some of his gourmand woody orientals, including Coze and Aomassaļ. The result is less obviously pretty than Tocade, less obviously feminine, and more ambiguous in mood. If Tocade can seem relentlessly cheerful, Brūlure de Rose - despite its pastel pink color - suggests the capacity, if not the inclination, to brood. Its also a lot more adaptable to use by adventuresome men, particularly as its drifts into its woody drydown.
Tooth achingly sweet. Less a scorched brūlée, where creamy sweet rose would have the bitter bite of the crisp burnt sugar to play against, more an infusion of rose, warmed gently in a pan with milk and mixed into a selection of confections. For me, the evolution of the scent, and it does evolve quickly and interestingly, was a study of the confections the rose is conveyed in, rather than the rose itself. Good quality white chocolate filled with raspberry pieces and lavishly flecked with vanilla and rose petals, candied roses imprisoned in sugar, roses buried under thick pannacotta or the brūlée that hasn't yet been burnt. And that's my gripe, the rose is constantly buried under it's confection, peeps out enticingly before being swept back under. Enticing can be wonderful ... but sometimes it flips over to frustration. Overall this is lovely , but not quite what it could have been if more contrast had been there to balance the sweetness, or to lighten the edible burden the rose is under that prevents the whole composition from truely shining. To me the most obvious scent here is raspberry, not rose. Once I let go of the idea that rose 'should' be at the heart of this I liked it a lot more.
It gets a thumbs up because I like the idea, and it certainly entertains through it's progression. One to try, just for the fun of it,
14th October, 2011 (last edited: 28th October, 2011)
It works for me at first because I love rosewood and I get a full rosewood note right out of the bottle
one thats pleasantly aromatic. The opening accord is unique
almost chaotic with opposing notes and an abstract, aromatic ambiance. When the aromatics lessen, the rose comes through softly but clearly, and its a kind of rose I can like: discreet
not anywhere near cloying, and with that lightly metallic tinge that I often get in an accord when rosewood is present. There is something pleasantly sharp, maybe citrus, in the background. I know that this is supposed to present the rose in three of its phases from birth to infinity, but I dont get the development. The rose stays soft and light and discreet for a long time and then turns bubble gum sweet and there it stays: Its probably what is referred to as rose amber. Toward the dry down I get a very slight smoky note
barely enough to notice. There are supposed to be cocoa and raspberry notes at this point but I dont smell them.
What started out as a pleasant rose / rosewood fragrance has turned out to be pretty much of a disappointment. The proposed complexity of this fragrance just didnt carry through to my nose.
It's horrible. I was expecting roses and smoke, or perhaps roses and gunpowder, but what I got instead, is the nastiest bubblegum smell ever. It was so invasive and so close to what bubble gum smells like that that I could not even detect any rose in it. I sat on the bus a few minutes after I applied it, and I was so embarrassed because no one would sit anywhere near me. What's more, it took ages to wash off so I was stuck with it, and a horrible headache for hours.
Not terribly impressed. The description was lovely--an attempt to capture the rose when it is closed as a bud, when it first opens, and when it is at full bloom.
I was disappointed that the rosewood doesn't come through for me. I love rosewood as an ingredient. Overall I get a rose accord with an indistinct lemon and raspberry aspect softened by a little vanilla or chocolate. I think it is better to buy a few different rose scents from Les Parfums de Rosine to get a tour of the variety in rose accords.