Genre: Woody Oriental
With iris fragrances sprouting like toadstools these days, I’m happy to report that Iris Taizo is not your standard issue orris root concoction. Whereas the majority of recent iris compositions range from rooty and earthy to demurely powdery, Iris Taizo goes in an entirely different direction. In fact, I’m not sure if it qualifies as an “iris” scent at all. I detect plenty of iris root alright, but the iris isn’t really the featured attraction in this scent. Instead, Iris Taizo reads as a clean, fruity leather scent along the lines of Serge Lutens’s Daim Blond or Parfum d’Empire’s Cuir Ottoman.
While the iris root doesn’t dominate the composition, it does steer the leathery base toward suede gloves, rather than equestrian tack or bikers’ jackets. With an intense sweet-tart apricot and floral accord that’s reminiscent of osmanthus at its heart, and a warm labdanum in the base, Iris Taizo is a dignified, comfortable, and eminently civilized fragrance. In mood and general structure, it reminds me of it’s near-contemporary, Dior Homme. And while it will raise a few hackles if I say so, I see Iris Taizo as what the wildly overrated Dior Homme might have been were it a better scent; i.e. stripped of its ghastly, cheap Jolly Rancher candy note and given a more elegant and interesting drydown.
Sillage and projection are both moderate, so that Iris Taizo registers easily, but never becomes intrusive in enclosed spaces. Longevity is also more than adequate at six hours or more, during which the extended drydown is a treat. Though it’s a bit sweet, I consider Iris Taizo to be gender neutral, and any man who’s comfortable with Dior Homme should be able to wear this with ease.
Now called Iris Oriental - this is a lovely spicey, powdery iris scent. Sweet woody and loses some of the iris on my skin later as it dries down. It's good but not an iris I would buy for an iris craving. Unisex.
I am not a fan of florals, but Iris Taizo (Oriental) is one of the few that I can love. It's floral with a focused Iris note amidst a refined spicy incense accord to carry it with complexity and decisiveness, grounded by a smooth warm woods and vanilla base. It is indeed on the powdery side, but it's oriental vanilla elements keep this from being wimpy or old lady. This is for a woman who knows what she wants and embraces the power of being feminine. Refreshingly uplifting and uncommon. Although leaning towards the unisex side of feminine, as a guy, I won't wear this one. It's for her only.
Honestly I got this sample because it included Jinkoh wood, which I've never heard of so my interest was peaked.
After wearing it for a few hours I get what is wrong with it: it is not marketed correctly. This is not an oriental, but an oriental woody spicy. It is also not for men and women, but for men.
But what a lovely woody spicy for men it is! This is a sweet, delicate wood with a lovely drydown.
Now here is what I find interesting: I always read about Bal a Versaille, Shalimar, etc. and their references to 'sexy smells'. 'Dirty panties', 'freshly used sheets', etc.
This scent, to me, is what 'sexy scent' should smell like (on a man). It's refined suggestive pleasure in a bottle. If Marilyn sleeps with just a drop of Chanel, the Statue of David could dress with just a drop of Iris Taizo.
I"m goign to see what my BF smells like in this...
I've lost this sample, but I remember it clearly. I did not think that I would like iris, but I had to give it a try. I was fairly new to most of the other notes as well.
Upon applying, the Iris really blasted out at me. I was patient and the middle notes were rewarding. Very yummy without being too gourmand&sweet. This fragrance lasted a good long time.
Normally, I either like a scent or I don't and that's it. With this one, it took about 2-3 wears before I started to have the craving. I would crave to wear Iris Taizo (now Iris Oriental) and smell it just like I do with my other favorite scents. It had to grow on me.
If you like this but want something smokier, you should try Palisander by CDG and especially try Coze by Parfumerie Generale.
A wonderful and completely different rendition of the Iris note. Even though there are some spices and sweetness poking through it's the Iris that always leads the way here. However, it does turn distinctly powdery on me and therein lies the problem. I can't wear, with any confidence, powdery florals -- so I put this in the feminine camp. I don't think it is strictly unisex, but good luck if you can pull it off and I envy all you women with this one.