As a fan of leather fragrances I feel this one is animalic in all the wrong ways. And though I enjoy animalic leathers like Cuir d'arabie and leather oud, this one is animalic in the sense of stale cat urine, that sharp, sweaty, "grey" smell that is quite unlike human urine. Those unfamiliar with the smell would never guess it's origins and it makes me wonder whether the perfumer has spent any time in close proximity to cats. Unfortunately my wife knows the smell too well and was horrified by this fragrance. Of course there is more going on than this central accord, but in the end this is all that attired to me. Glad I sampled first.
At first I was thinking, "The Knize Ten, but less oriental and complex," but then I was thinking, "vintage Red for men but with leather instead of sequoia, and again, less complex." And after a few hours, at most, my thought was that it was far too "chemical," as in chemicals being spilled in a lab! I find Leather Oud by Dior to be more "natural" smelling, and therefore superior, but it's in that "general ballpark" as well. I can understand the appeal, especially for those who like these kinds of scents and don't find this one to be too "chemical," so I'll give it a neutral rating.
Aside from the idiotic name (who would want to buy a scent that promised to smell of nothing at all???), this has a lot going for it and a major strike against it.
From a distance, it is a beautiful sweet leather, strong and pungent. Turin gives it four stars, calls it an "animalic leather," and notes that is "no other unsweetened leather out there."
In addition to the notes mentioned above, "Incense, Rose, Leather, Iris, Cistus, Oakmoss, Black Pepper, Aldehydes, Cumin, Patchouli," I detect a good deal of cedar and Oud. It is the Oud that gives it too harsh and sharp an undertone to be ultimately a pleasant experience for me.
Had Etat left the harshness out of the formula, this would be a go-to leather scent for me. As is, I will stick with my Knize Ten, Chanel's Cuir de Russie, and SL's Iris Silver Mist as my favorite leathers.
Aldehydes and leather with incense is how it starts. Big and bold, the leather is a little animalic, at the edge of being offensive. Developing into the heart, something sweet emerges, I suppose it's the styrax. Further, the fragrance becomes a creamy leather accompanied by the flowers and goes like this for a very long time.
It is not for everyone, that's for sure, but I like it. Not usually a fan of animalic perfumes, and this one kind of walks that line; but it is more than that, the carnal leather mixed with the flowers are addictive, making you lust for it. It might seem daring and repulsive, but you can't take your mind out of it. If you don't like it at first, give it a chance, it might surprise you.
Phenomenal sillsge and projection. I get animalic, incense, patchouli and oakmoss and it stays on your skin forever. Well I could still sense the smell after a shower. It the kind of scent 2 sprays would go all day long and many compliments. Quality, powerful stuff.