Rien (2006)
by Etat Libre d'Orange

One spray on my wrist was far too much. In fact, it gave me a headache. To me it seemed like a much less refined Knize Ten (which I must say is brilliant). Twice the volume, but no control or balance. Smelling this on my wrist gave a similar feeling to glancing at an incredibly bright light, after just waking up with tired and sensitve eyes.

27th December, 2011.

Thanks to my learned friend Alfarom i've tested this wonderful incensey and rosey leather scent in the vein of Pure Aoud by Kilian (they share notes as cistus labdanum, balsams-may be rose, berries and aoud not listed in killian- animalic notes and others). Very, very vintage in its link of aldehydes, rose-iris and patchouli. The sensation is like inhaling the odour of an old  wardrobe with furs inside. Leaning over the womanly side in my opinion. The animalism of the scent is sheer (civet? May  be just the cistus labdanum) as well as its sinister appeal in reminiscence of the old Paris in its old buildings' interiors. The first introdution of the smell is under clothes of floral and smoky leather, vanilla, corrupted fruits and medicinal aoud. The not listed aoud is minimal but present, in my opinion, although is possible that the medicinal trait is produced by aldehydes in the first moment of the evolution. Anyway the first sensation is a bit laundry and detergent and this old-bathroom vibe is boasted by the presence of iris in the blend, before a smoky creaminess takes off. I detect the presence of blackcurrant that imprints that sort of mellow fruits smell that pushes up the leathery and vintage vibe. As well as Foetidus underlined i don't get a notable note of incense,  while the smoke is prominent over the floral leather. Possibly the real protagonist of the leathery-smoky feel is the complex element of the ambery cistus labdanum, a very articulated, ambery and smoky animalic kind of smell. May be the incense, in connection with aldehydes, black pepper and cumin, produces a touch of gas that recedes with time. The cumin is notable here as well is notable in a fragrance this one reminds a bit to, i mean the ghosty Serge Noir Lutens. Obviously in the general vintage and dark atmosphere could not be assent another protagonist, a patchouli that is floral and leathery and endly woodsy because of the presence of a rounding oakmoss. Another wonderful dark and vintage concoction.

24th November, 2011. (Last Edited: 29th November, 2011.)

I don’t get the blackcurrant bud in the opening, but I do get leather and aldehydes. I’m surprised at the leather because it is a rather strong version, and yet I barely dislike it… I hate most leather notes. There’s a definite smoky / incense aspect to this leather – the pyramid says “frankincense” but it smells more smoky to my nose, possibly because the leather is so strong. There’s also some spice that I can smell but not identify. Powder? Not really… nor do I get much vanilla in the base. The leather dominates from beginning to end to such an extent, that I do not consider myself as a good judge of what’s really happening in the fragrance: It’s an interesting fragrance and my main reaction to it is that I don’t exactly like it, but I’m surprised that I can tolerate it. Rien has very little movement or complexity for me. It’s a long lasting fragrance with better than average sillage

I will vote a neutral for Rien, but I’m tempted to vote a thumbs up simply because it’s a strong leather scent that doesn’t revolt me… they must have done a lot right in this one.

9th October, 2011.

Believe it or not, Rien is like Knize Ten cranked up tenfold. It's a very powerful deep and dark animalic leather with no softening edges. I couldn't wear Rien comfortably, but some love it. It tends to polarise, so I am going to give it a neutral - ha ha.

Stop Press:I have tested the new Pentachords range from Andy Tauer and would like to put on record that 'Auburn' is quite simply the best oriental I have ever experienced -- it's basically cinnamon, lemon, sandalwood and incense, but it's so much more than the sum of it's parts. Truly wonderful and needs to be tested. Wasn't as knocked out by the other two in the range, but that maybe because I tried them after 'Auburn'.

I have done 180's on 2 fragrances, namely Orange Star by Tauer and Guerlain's Double Vaniille -- I love them both now. That will teach me not to write kneejerk reviews.

There is a new 'Oud' synthetic available now to perfumers and fragrances with this note are (boringly) everywhere now. Surprisingly, the best I have come across is by Jo Malone and called 'Bergamot and Oud'. It's a really refined and lovely scent -- not like a lot of these 'ouds' that leave you cross-eyed and close to collapse.

30th September, 2011.

Rien starts off with a splurge of aldehydes laced with leather. Some incense/florals begin to make there way in, though not too heavy. The leather is animalistic and on drydown it becomes very woody. Almost cedar-like. I would think just looking at the notes that I’d love this fragrance, but I’ve worn it several times and it just doesn’t do it for me.

25th July, 2011.

Rien is a leather, yes, but what constitutes a leather note in perfumery is often vague. ‘Floral’ and ‘woody’ are broad categories as well. Yet we make distinctions in florals (by species: jasmine, tuberose, lily; descriptively: bright, orchestral, indolic) and woods (by tree: sandlewood, cedar, birch; qualitatively: grassy, earthy, milky.) Even a genre as vague as ‘green’ lets us specify by ingredient (galbanum, neroli, vetiver) and by attribute (fruity, resinous, bitter.) For leathers, we might point to the ingredients of rectified birch tar or isoquinolones, but in general we’re usually just loosely descriptive, often to the point of obscurity. Smokey, tarry, rubbery, ‘like the inside of a purse,’ suede-like. Suede-like? We might as well say carpet-like. Evocative, yes, but this terminology doesn’t give us a lot of analytical range.

What are the actual differences in the leather characteristics of Knize Ten, Cuir de Russie, Carillon pour un Ange, Azurée, Habit Rouge? I have no answers, but am curious.

But Rien is a bit different. It uses a combination of ingredients that each gives a slightly different angle on the qualities of dryness, dustiness, inkiness, metal, bitterness. It suggests the scent of a thick leather motorcycle jacket. Incense, cistus, cumin, styrax, aldehydes. Find the wrong angle on any of these components and Rien could have been a muddle if not a mess. As it turns out, though, (and here I fall prey to dim descriptions of the leather genre) Rien is a gorgeous, sharp, harsh leather. Distinctive, striking, beautiful? Utterly. Pretty, cozy, something Sephora has trained its customers to like? Not by a long shot.

Etat Libre d’Orange doesn’t target the mainstream perfume buyer, and thus avoids the sort of fragrance that a good few might like and an even larger number won’t actually mind. For the complaints, valid or not, leveled against niche perfumery (pretension, dilettante exclusivity, smugness) Rien is a beautiful example of the effectiveness of a well-curated line and risk-taking. In addition, it is no more expensive than many designer releases.

Rien is a terrific perfume, and perhaps more importantly, an example of a creative, successful strategy by a niche house.

16th July, 2011.