Yeah... No. Pine-horror top-note that fades to nothing in no time. I don't get this at all. I can see the passing resemblance to Yatagan, but this is a castrated Yatagan that has lost the will to live. Pointless.
Eloge du Traitre opens with a very fresh, icy pine that is quickly joined by cool green herbal notes. The geranium and jasmine mentioned in the scent's description are well hidden, and serve more to soften the edges of the fragrance than as leading elements. The heart of Eloge du Traitre is the cold heart of a pine forest in winter, all still and frosty in the early morning light.
The pine and a certain sharpness in this scent may be what remind some reviewers of Yatagan, but I find the resemblance superficial. Eloge du Traitre has none of the artemisia that shapes the heart of Yatagan, and does not approach the older scent's dry, feral potency. Ultimately rather simple and not terribly exciting, though it might well appeal to those who find Yatagan just too overwhelming.
Coniferous woods, bitter resins, earthy patchouli and just a touch of spiced florals. It is unforgivingly dry but not parched. Oh yeah, this is how a man's man should smell like. Back in the '70s, that is. With the bell bottoms, flared collars and Burt Reynold's moustache. It's probably a little too old school even for a classic lover like myself but there are occasions when I appreciate this blast from the past. Reminds me of another favorite old school spiced fougere: Jacomo Anthracite Pour Homme.
Eloge du Traitre by Etat Libre d'Orange - Upon application, one is treated to a whirlwind of pine, with its resinous and camphoraceous character, commingling with the lightly herbaceous and slightly medicinal aspects of artemisia, as well as the somewhat mentholish woodiness of laurel. A hint of musky sweetness wafts in the background. Transitioning to the heart, the diffusive, floral fruitiness of jasmine, along with the singular, leafy greenness of geranium, enhance the balsamic, pine-needle freshness of the opening. A dusting of clove adds its musty and charred-wood aspects. Segueing to the base, an animalic and smoky leather interplays with the sweetly camphoraceous and earthy woodiness of patchouli. A somewhat dark and musty musk flutters about. A comforting drydown ensues. A welcomed addition to one's wardrobe, this manly and outdoorsy composition is well blended and balanced, with average projection and longevity.
Upon first testing this on a card with a friend, a herb-spice shimmer arose that had us grabbing the card back and forth and trying to inhale it whole. We couldn't quite get a grip on it, it twinkled, and we loved it.
The skin test was a bit of a letdown. An initial blast of top-quality, dry, smoky loban, quite centring, which still made me go mmm. But over time all that developed were the leather aspects, which made me think of kinky goings on in an abbey. Well, I wouldn't mind seeing the film of that, but the perfume.... well, let's just say it wore on. I can't help thinking that this has the makings of greatness but isn't quite there yet. Maybe introducing a sweet floral note – peony or rose?