Reviews of Labdanum 18 / Ciste 18 (2006)
by Le Labo

Musky butter? Well, Le Labo is famous for producing perfumes that only slightly resemble the names they give them. It's a mix of powderiness, sweetness, pepper, musk... very strange and in the league of oriental perfumes suited for the ladies. Decent.

Labdanum 18 is a pleasant amber-ish skin scent that is sweet but not overbearingly so. The first two times I skin tested it, I noted a similarity with another fragrance, but for the life of me couldn't place it... it was something about the heart of L-18, at the point where a sweet floral note emerges and melds with the labdanum to create a buttery effect. It struck me tonight... the heart of L18 is very reminiscent of Helmut Lang EdC/EdP, only with the volume turned way down. This buttery floral/woody accord is the thrust of Helmut Lang, front and center. In L18 it is balanced with musk and amber.

Although it stays close to the skin, only a couple sprays are needed for the fragrance to last forever. High quality, but worth purchasing only if money is not a limiting factor. Even discontinued, Helmut Lang can be found for far less money.

Labdanum 18 is more warm and cuddly than the smoky, cool, outdoorsy, woody, musky scents in the Le Labo line, which makes it easier for a woman to wear. This fragrance doesn't cover much new ground, being a leathery amber. Montale Blue Amber is better (and a good deal stronger, too) for the money. L'Artisan Amber Extreme is comparable. Amber Russe by Parfum d'Empire does it with a sense of humor, adding booze into the amber and leather mix. Anyway, it's fine, but try alongside the others mentioned here.

Interesting. On me this Labdanum is sweet musk with an immediate powdery accord...no spice. I get a hint of this in some of the loukhoums - it's nice, but doesn't suit my personality - which is how come the neutral thumb.